Tulum Tranquility

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This morning I asked Jay what single word he would give to each place we've been so far on our Mexico adventure.

Cancun...tequila.  Isla Mujeres...charm. Playa del Carmen...alive.  

For Tulum, we settled on "soulful".  Tulum is a city of consciousness, thoughtful down to every last detail.  Shops, food, beaches, and architecture are all works of art, each designed as an opportunity to slow down, marvel, and connect.  Gone is the touristy neon of Playa; in its place are dusty mauve pillows, seas of soft white and beige linens, and shabby chic, rustic furniture for sun-streaked travelers to curl into as the evening breeze picks up.  Lanterns drip from trees and the bicycles with wicker baskets are the preferred mode of transportation.  You can get coconut or almond milk in your coffee, vegans are in Heaven, and an alchemist from Paris is nestled smack in the middle of it all.

Yogis mix with divers, with fishermen, with DJs, with chefs, with dreamers, with writers, with children, with languages, with sea salt, with love.  Tulum is more than soulful.  Tulum is soul-overflowing. 

There are two distinct segments of Tulum: the pueblo and the beach.  Our hotel is in the former, and the town boasts more affordable prices and a taste of local living.  Xscape is run by the most helpful, excited staff who eagerly greet us each day.  We've found Mexico welcoming and warm at every juncture. Burrito Amor is a few blocks away, and the home-made coconut tortillas keep us coming back.  Try the pulled pork and pineapple burrito.  

Beauty in simplicity: Xscape Tulum

Beauty in simplicity: Xscape Tulum

Home is wherever I'm with you

Home is wherever I'm with you

A few miles from Avenida Tulum is the narrow street that divides the beach from the jungle.  Miles of boutique hotels, restaurants, yoga studios, and shops mosaic Zona Hotelera.   My family stayed at the El Paraiso Hotel, opening their cottage door to sand and hammocks.  We took a boat from their shore to snorkel with turtles, string rays, and electric colored fish; our captain stopped at a shoreline cenote where the cool, fresh water gurgled up against the ocean.  You can feel the difference between the fresh and salty water and the combination seems to wash away worries.

The Azulik Hotel is the crown jewel of Tulum, inviting travelers to be awestruck in the treetop hammocks of Kin Toh (the restaurant), tip toe barefoot through water features in Zak Ik (the boutique), and consider different perspective in Ik Lab (the art installation).  Like many spots in Tulum, the Azulik has created space to just "be". 

"Shopping" at Zak Ik 

"Shopping" at Zak Ik 

Where's Jay?

Where's Jay?

Where's mama?

Where's mama?

Ik Lab, Art Instalattion

Ik Lab, Art Instalattion

A table with a view at Kin Toh, Tulum

A table with a view at Kin Toh, Tulum

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A change in perspective at Ik Lab, Tulum

A change in perspective at Ik Lab, Tulum

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Casa Jaguar 

Casa Jaguar 

My brother and Jay loved the beachfront Ahua Jungle Gym with Flintstone style weights and contraptions, Raw Love has rejuvenating smoothie bowls and vegan pad thai, and Hotel Sotavento's Mexican pizza with carne asada is non-negotiable.  Casa Jaguar shone with craft cocktails, the red snapper catch of the day, and ossobuco; my sister is a churro connoisseur and gave them top ratings.  Jay's quote of the trip is, "Where is the bad food? We can't find bad food!" My mama hasn't found a guacamole that doesn't make her smile, and my new favorite Spanish word is "totopos", because we always need a few more tortilla chips. 

Raw Love relaxation

Raw Love relaxation

Jungle Gym gains

Jungle Gym gains

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Raw Love vegan Pizza and Vanilla Smoothie Bowl

Raw Love vegan Pizza and Vanilla Smoothie Bowl

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As we stay goodbye to our visitors, we welcome the second half of our trip.  We have a few more soulful days in Tulum, then head west and inland to the capital of the Yucatan: Merida.  Thank you to everyone following our journey.  Leave us questions in the comments or shoot us a message if there are things you want to hear more about.  

             

The Best of Uluwatu

Bukit Cafe Tomato Egg Bake and Bacon

Bukit Cafe Tomato Egg Bake and Bacon

Single Fin Sundays

Single Fin Sundays

Single Fin

Single Fin

Fresh juice at the Corner Cafe

Fresh juice at the Corner Cafe

Bukit Cafe Breakfast Burrito 

Bukit Cafe Breakfast Burrito 

Suka

Suka

After two months in our Uluwatu nook, we're sad to leave but feel accustomed to life in Southern Bali and ready to release our "Best of Uluwatu" list to link you with some of our favorites.  Many of these places you'll need; some of them, you'll want; others you'll wonder how you lived without.  We agree on most, but for a few categories you'll see our personal thoughts...overall, you'll can't go wrong in Uluwatu.  

The best motorbike rental company...

  • Ulu's Family, on the right as you turn off towards Single Fin
  • Safe bikes, deals for renting for longer periods of time, personable service

The best place to buy, rent, or customize a surf board...

  • White Monkey Surf Shop

The best nightlife...

  • Single Fin, Sunday Nights
  • You have to get there early to get a table, but even if you can't get one you'll enjoy an epic sunset, bird's eye view of awesome surf, great DJs, and people from all over the world

The best driver...

  • Mario, WhatsApp +62 896-9832-4488
  • Kind, helpful, and so reliable

The best activity coordinator...

  • Agung, WhatsApp +62 896-8393-0428
  • Organized Mt. Batur, secret waterfalls, Gili transport and beyond
  • We met him back in February and he's a gem

The best laundry...

  • Padang Padang Laundry, across from Buddha Soul; this small place accounts for every item when you drop it off, giving you a copy of that record that you bring back for pickup
  • Laundry smells great and is nicely folded, but they get busy and often need two full days

The best dive company...

  • Bali International Diving Professionals
  • Avandy Djunaidi is the Yoda of diving; don't learn anywhere else. (Note: He's not technically in Uluwatu, but he'll arrange transport and he knows underwater Bali better than anyone else.)

The best daytime beach...

  • If it's low tide, get down to Single Fin and head left though the caves.
  • You'll find a secret beach with shipwreck ruins and a lot of privacy

The best sunset...

  • Balangan Beach Sunset Point
  • Use maps.me to get here through the Bingin Beach entrance; the black sands are worth it

The best place to get a book...

  • Yeye's is an Uluwatu staple- great food, beautiful atmosphere, awesome gift shop, and huge selection of books
  • Trade two you've read for one that you want

The best breakfast...

  • Bukit Cafe- anything on the menu
  • Buddha Soul- the chocolate smoothie bowl, and all of their other healthy options, will keep you coming back 
    • Be sure to try Om Burger for lunch (same owner, epic black rice buns)
  • Corner Cafe- There are two, and they're both great.  Cash only, but great prices.

Best juices and smoothies

  • Yoga Searcher- fresh, healthy, organic (you can do yoga in the back and even book villas there)

The best Italian food...

  • La Baracca is a newcomer to the Uluwatu scene, but the owners are from Rome and their food is exceptional (Jay's Pick)
    • Beautiful nighttime ambiance and personable service
  • Rolling Fork is one of our favorite places to enjoy a long, slow, blogging dinner (Chantal's pick)
    • Homemade pasta is a must, and the lava cake will make you wish you started with dessert

The best milkshake...

  • Suka Espresso has pretty much the best EVERYTHING
  • Their Unicorn Milkshake is unbelievable 
    • This isn't about a milkshake, but the Lemme Wrap (chicken wrap) will change your life.