Long Hair Long Life

Gili Air, although initially peaceful and undeniably charming, came with a series of unfortunate events.  (Note: There are no pictures with this post, as it has not been pretty.) It started off simply enough; I came down with a cold and sneezed my way around the island, then got badly congested.  Not the end of the world.  I sat reading in a beanbag chair one afternoon as Jay went out to snorkel. 

He wasn’t out long when I saw him returning, figuring the snorkeling wasn’t very good.  I should know Jay better, and my adrenaline finally kicked in when he calmly said, “I may need your help.”

As he approached he presented his middle toe, covered in tiny spines from some creature and turning purple.  “I don’t think this is good,” he said.  About a 20 minute walk from our villa, I knew he needed tweezers and alcohol (which I should carry in a fanny pack at this point) so I took off sprinting and told him to ask for the wifi and start Googling.

When I got to the villa (not pretty in my congested state) my wifi clicked in and I had a message from Jay (and Google): sea urchin. Only my Jay would get hit by a sea urchin on the top of his foot.  I grabbed the supplies and sprinted back.  In my haste I’d forgotten my sandals, so hot sand added an extra element of fun to my run.

When I got there he was soaking the toe in vinegar, which we now know is the immediate “go to” for sea urchin stings.  It breaks up the venom.  I did my best to surgically remove the spines and we applied vinegar and alcohol until Jay was ready to walk.  Since we were walking around the island, we decided to finish our walk and ended up finding a Medical Center, aka a room with some stuff in it. (No tissues.  Out of tissues.)

They popped Jay on a table and told him the vinegar was a smart move, and really the only thing that works on sea urchin attacks. They did need to break up the stings as best as possible, so his body could absorb the poison and heal.  They picked up a contraption that looked like a miniature golf ball and proceeded to whack the toe and all of the purple spots repeatedly.  It looked incredibly painful, but Jay handled it like a champ and I shuffled through the shelves to find a decongestant.

I was still stuffy the next morning, so sent Jay scuba diving (his toe was successfully healing) and headed to the dock to book our speedboat back to Bali the next day.

Imagine my surprise when I approached our boat company’s counter and presented my tickets, only to be told: “No fast boats today or tomorrow.”  My series of questions and disbelief in my voice seemed to confuse them, but I managed to learn that the government had grounded all fast boats to and from the Gili Islands because of weather.  Our alternative?  A 9 hour slow boat.  My congested head started to spin.

How long would this ban last?  Ask the government.  Great.  Can I get their number?  As you can imagine, I was not the only confused tourist on the dock.  But we seemed to be the only ones concerned.  Apparently the locals are accustomed to boat schedules being suspended on a whim. 

So we made a series of choices.  I declared that I would not get on a boat for 9 hours (we still may have to…) We figured we needed a hotel for an extra night, anyway, so why not see the last Gili Island.  So here we are.  On Gili Meno.  Hoping the winds swing in our favor and we can get back to Bali tomorrow.

Last night we layed on the beach watching the movie, "Lion" on bean bag chairs, eating fresh BBQ, realizing that island life has its perks, so long as you adjust your clock with the trade winds, have some patience, and watch out for sea urchins.  As the locals say every time they pass us, “Long hair, long life.” No rush.  Couldn’t go anywhere if we wanted to.

Oh, and Jay's toe is fine.   

Canggu

Yesterday we set out on a 3 day excursion to Canggu, motorbiking up the western side of Bali.  Canggu came into our plans for different reasons.  Jay met a Bali enthusiast a few weeks before we left who insisted he see Canggu.  I am a kombucha enthusiast and found Happy Kombucha's Instagram back in February, filled with beautiful displays of their super-healthy drink flavors amid dreamy Bali scenes; the company is based in Canggu and I was eager to see the area.  A mini adventure brewed (kombucha pun intended). 

We've had days of rain, but the sky cleared for our adventure and we jammed a backpack full of the things we'd need for the week.  Jay's become a natural on the motorbike, following the locals up on sidewalks when the traffic is too busy on the streets.  It's not my favorite trick, but we are getting places much faster.  I'm squeezing his leg with my death grip less and less and can't complain because I get to see the beautiful world fly by (sometimes directly into our path, but that's a story for another time).

 "Controlled chaos" is the best way I've heard the streets of Bali described.  You have to just go for it, because if you stop and wait for it to be your turn you'll sit there all day.  In a way, our trip is kind of like that- diving into life and going for it.  Of course, obstacles pop up along the way. As we left Uluwatu the police flagged us down and asked to see Jay's driver's license.  They gave us a whole song and dance about needing an international driver's license, which can only be obtained in the home country, and being subject to a fine, but we were "very lucky" and they would give us a "good deal" and allow us to "buy" a permit for the rest of our time here...in case we were stopped again.  They hurried us, because they'd stopped the next bunch of confused tourists.  I scrambled to find the 300,000 rupiah ($20 ish) for the scam permit, but didn't have the full amount in my pockets.  As I started to dig through the backpack the man said, "Give me what you have.  Special deal for you today," and settled for the lesser amount so they could "help" the next set of tourists.  The European couple walking in looked terrified until I rolled my eyes.  On the road again, with our very official handwritten permit.

We made one more stop on our way up, and it's my fault.  I saw a Starbucks and had to see how it compared to my stateside addiction.  The drinks were the same, but the bakery had a complete Bali twist.  purple yam cake, pandan coconut brulee, and corned beef cowboy puff pastries shared space in the glass display.  But my favorite part was the Hindu offering at the counter (found in all Balinese businesses) that included a cake and shot of espresso.  Perfection. 

starbucks hindu offering

starbucks hindu offering

the best welcome

the best welcome

We continued our journey north, with the highway crossing waterways and crowded city eventually giving way to rice paddies and narrow streets.  We drove past our villa 4-5 times because the sign was tucked off to the side, but it was love at first sight when we saw Canggu and when we arrived at Ngeluwungan Boutique Villa.  My name was written on the welcome board as we pulled up to the property, and the young staff hasn't stopped smiling since we arrived.

This villa is pure magic.  It's a block from the beach, but nestled into rice paddies.  You can count the number of rooms on one hand, and each is spacious and filled with beautiful wooden furniture.  Plumeria flowers were scattered everywhere when we arrived and we enjoyed refreshing welcome drinks by the saltwater pool.  It's a true oasis, and the skies were blue for the first time this week.

Ngeluwungan Boutique Villa

Ngeluwungan Boutique Villa

For dinner, we headed to nearby Echo Beach, which is filled with restaurants and shops along a spectacular black sand beach.  Colorful bean bag chairs and umbrellas line the shore, and fresh fish is grilling from the open air restaurants.  The sunset filled the sky with colors that only seem to exist in Bali, and Canggu found a special place in our hearts.  We're excited to explore here the next few days.

refreshments at echo beach club

refreshments at echo beach club

echo beach sunset

echo beach sunset