Batu Cave Beauty

We reserved our last full day in Kuala Lumpur for the Batu Caves hike, and we waited until the afternoon for the heat to die down.  Hundreds of steps lead hikers up into an ancient Hindu temple built into the limestone hillside about 15 minutes from the KL city center.  Activity in this hillside temple is said to date back 400 million years, though steps were first built in the 1920s.  A massive gold statue guards the entrance, and lively monkeys entertain the hikers on their way up into the temple.  Music and a prayer service were in session as we reached the top temple, and the sounds echoed through the caves.  Walking down the stairs gives a panoramic view of KL.  Overall, even though touristy, it was spectacular. 

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KL Nightlife

After our Times Square experience (see previous blog) we needed a drink. Looking up a few spots, we landed on the most popular street, Jalan Ceylon, with restaurants, bars, and clubs all lined up next to each other. We sat down, had a few drinks, talked to a few of the employees, and people-watched. It was a really cool street, and the workers were telling us that at night, they block off the street as people are flooded everywhere until 3-4 a.m. As we relaxed from the mall madness, I did some research on where to view the Petronas Twin Towers at night. It seemed like a must do in KL. I found Sky Bar on top of the Traders Hotel that had the best view in town.

So there we went. We put on our best outfits and headed to the 33rd floor of Traders Hotel. We had to pay a little cover charge, but it included a free drink upon entry. Sky Bar had a long pool in the middle with lounges and bars surrounding, and did not disappoint with the view of the towers. All lit up, we took some amazing pictures, listened to great music, and enjoyed the view. After an hour or so, we decided to head back to Jalan Ceylon Street to see the madness at night.

We stopped at a restaurant called The Rabbit Hole where Chantal and I enjoyed our dinner until 2 girl employees ran up to Chantal, super giddy, thinking she was Celine Dion. They gave me their phone and said, "Can you take a picture of us and Celine?” “Sure, I guess.” It was absolutely hysterical seeing them pose with Chantal. Wearing heals, she could have been 2 feet taller than these girls. We had a good laugh with them and chatted for awhile.  Everyone we've met in Malaysia has been personable and excited to hear that we're from the U.S.  There are a lot of Brits, but we seemed to stand out.

After dinner, we walked down the street with music bumping from every bar. When we called it quits at 2 a.m., the street was in full swing.  

 

Time Square: Malaysian Mall Madness

Most of life in KL revolves around malls.  Some are high-end, some are outlets, some are wholesale: regardless of type, they are always bustling.  It comes as no surprise, since KL was modeled in many ways after NYC, that there’s a mall called Times Square, which even includes a Central Park inside.  We took off that morning in search of food and to see Times Square, not at all prepared for what we walked into.  (Note: Jay’s commentary is bolded.)

Chantal and I took a cheap Uber to Times Square (less than a $1 U.S., which was true of most rides on our trip) and as we entered, it opened up into a world of its own; roller coasters zoomed above our heads, infinite layered floors rose up as high as we could see with east and west wings, and people moved in every direction. It had a strong energy that we could feel. I looked at Chantal and said, “Where do we even start?” She replied, “We’re going to the top and working down.”

 Jay’s not kidding when he says we walked into a new world.  This indoor monster mall could be sealed from the outside and probably sustain life for all the people inside for over a year.  There’s a college on the top floor, floors that have pharmacies and other practical shops, and restaurants galore.  Looking down from the top floor made my head spin. 

View from above

View from above

View over "Central Park"

View over "Central Park"

We quickly realized that this world, like any other society, had a hierarchy.  The popular, name brand shops were nestled closer to the entrance and ground level, and my plan to start at the top put us next to the places with more negotiable prices and questionable merchandise.   We were laughing at this when we passed a watch shop.  I was still mid conversation when I realized Jay had committed the cardinal sin and stopped to admire a watch.  The eager shop owner had a “Rolex” out before I could even get my wits about me.   “I’m just going to look,” said Jay.  He’s in sales.  He knew better.

It was one Indian man in this shop full of “name brand” watches. He seemed desperate for a sale since the top floor was nearly empty (locals probably knew better). I was looking innocently through the glass casing and watches were suddenly forced into my hand. With every watch he let me hold, he kept saying they are good for diving and swimming; I guess that was his selling point for a guy who looked like he surfed. I had no intention of buying a watch, but this guy was relentless: “For you, I have a great deal,” he said and pulled out a calculator. Fake Rolex in hand, he typed 320 Ringgit in the calculator first, and then said, “For you, 280,” changing the number on the calculator. (Ringgit is the Malaysian currency and US Dollar is about 4x more, so the “Rolex” was about $70).  We still aren’t sure why he kept typing amounts on the calculator instead of saying them. It must be a special sales technique. I said no.  He insisted. Chantal rolled her eyes. Then I stumbled on a cool watch with a brown leather band and metallic face that I was kind of interested in. He gave me the good price on the calculator of 280 Ringgit (and of course reminded me that it was good under water- just what I wanted.  A leather watch under water). I denied again as he passed me the calculator. He said, “You type a price in and I won’t look.” Now that really confused me, as he had already boxed the watch, bagged it and put it in my hand. I took the watch back out of the box and Chantal moved in for the valuation.

I noticed two things right away.  First, the watch hands weren’t moving.   There was a hand to count the seconds, and it was frozen in place.  When I mentioned this to him, he insisted, “That hand is just for decoration,” and motioned that the hand didn’t move on any of the watches in his shop.  I looked.  He was correct.  Not a single watch in the shop worked.  Not a great selling point for my valuation.  Second, I noticed that the matte silver casing around the face had a small blemish on it.  It looked like the layer was peeling off.  I mentioned this to him and he started to rub it away.  Sadly, a huge chunk chipped off at that point.  Like the sales champ he was, he played it off like this was normal and continued to chip away.  We seized the moment to say we’d be back, and this time he didn’t chase after us.  He accepted defeat.

As we scurried off, I scolded Jay for stopping and we laughed as we quickly evacuated the floor.  What do you know?  The next floor opened to men’s shoes.  Jay was already inside before I could remind him of the last half hour.

Everyone close to me knows that I am into stylish, stand-out shoes. I already had on my fresh black and white Adidas NMD’s and saw other similar pairs in this store. I picked one up and quickly realized they were fake…again. The salesman ran up to me pushing the sale mid-stride (Do you see a trend here?) I put the shoe down and motioned to what real shoes look like on my feet. That didn’t go over well because when I walked away they were yelling something at me that I couldn’t understand. “Hurry up Chantal, we need to retreat to the next floor down!”

I was several stores down.  I’d learned my lesson and refused to get involved. With yelling following us, we retreated to safer levels.  Always an adventure. 

The Scenic Route to Central Market KL

There was not enough fuel in the world for our next adventure.  It seemed simple enough.  A mile from our lunch is a famous Central Market with hundreds of vendors; the city is one of the most diverse I've seen, with a huge Indian and Chinese influence, Islamic architecture splashed against a New York-esque skyline, and Hindu colors lighting up the streets.  We excitedly followed the path that maps.me set out for us.

Maps.me has been our navigational savior, as it doesn't require Internet connection but runs off of downloaded maps and GPS.  That being said, it seems to work a bit better for driving routes than walking paths.  When walking, the arrow will sometimes get confused and start turning in every direction.  Jay and I call this maps.me being upset. We don't want to make her upset. We want to stay on the path.  

Our path initially wound us up by the magnificent KL Tower.  We learned our lesson and didn't do the touristy ride to the top, but we stopped to enjoy the air conditioning for a minute.  Our first .3 miles of maps.me took us up a winding hill in the 90+ degree heat.  And then maps.me got upset.  

We couldn't figure out which way she wanted us to go; up by the iconic tower there were only a few paths, and she seemed to keep sending us down the backside of the mountain, through a sort of forest/park/jungle path.  Signs warned us about dangerous bugs and reptiles.  I told Jay I didn't feel like this path would lead us back to the streets and markets, but maps.me was insistent so that's the path we took.

We wound through trees and downhill through a beautiful natural park.  I heard the large KL freeway getting louder, and told Jay we may have to climb some trees or hop some fences, but we'd eventually get back on track.  Miraculously, an opening appeared at the bottom of the hill and we wound our way back to a main street.  We were still .5 miles away.  (I'm not sure maps.me is accurate in her distances when she is upset.)

Drenched in sweat, blistered feet, we made it to the Central Market.  It was everything I hoped it would be: outdoors vendors slinging knock off designer purses and watches, inside vendors boasting treasures from around the world, jewelry, art, music, food, colors, eager shop keepers.  There was so much life.

Chinese wonders

Chinese wonders

Turkish trinkets

Turkish trinkets

outside market views

outside market views

We took a cab back to our hotel (and it felt quite like New York city as the meter ran in stand-still traffic). Still, with the conversion, our taxi was only $5.  (Note: Make sure you always get a taxi with a meter when in Malaysia or they will concoct much higher prices for your fare.  You will pay them, because you will have blisters, dehydration from the heat and sweating, and exhaustion from the wonders that you just took in.)  The Central Market is a must. 

We capped off our first day in KL with a long nap and stop at our hotel rooftop before heading to dinner.  The KL Tower lit up at night is magical.  The colors change and the whole city seems to sparkle.  Lights are strung across the streets and inside closed shops.  Jay's peanut butter milkshake at funky eatery Gravy Baby (Bukit Bintang neighborhood) did not disappoint. 

KL SKYLINE

KL SKYLINE

THE COLORS OF KL TOWER

THE COLORS OF KL TOWER

Naughty Nuri's

After settling into our hotel, we wanted to get out and explore KL as quickly as possible.  Of course, we needed to eat first.  Our Uber driver told us 4 days in KL is plenty because the food is so good that if you stay any longer you'll get fat.  So far, I have to agree.

If you've never used Zomato, it's an international app that finds your location and countless food options around you.  You can sort the list by proximity, rating, popularity, type of cuisine, etc. There are photos and reviews and it hasn't led us astray yet.  

Since we were starving, we found a place in short walking distance and we were off to Naughty Nuri's, a restaurant that boasts the best ribs in the world.  Our lunch quickly confirmed that claim.  I've never had ribs before, but I can testify that the sauce was one of the best combinations of sweet, spicy, and smokey that I've ever tasted.  Jay stopped talking to me because he was so enthralled in them.  Everyone working at Naughty Nuri's greets you with huge smiles and welcomes and we were personally thanked by the Assistant General Manager, Mr. Arjan, on our way out.  This was the perfect place to break into the foodie heaven of KL, and to fuel our next adventure. 

Good Morning, Malaysia

Our day started at 4:30 am and we were off to the airport in time to catch our early flight to Malaysia.  We're doing a long weekend in Kuala Lumpur- getting a change of pace from island life (and also avoiding outstaying our 30 day tourist visa by a day or so).  You can pay a small amount to extend the tourist visa an extra 30 days, but with $80 roundtrip flights, we opted for the adventure.

We breezed through customs, were taken on our word that we'd been in Indonesia 29 days (not the visa limit of 30), and headed to a restaurant so we could get breakfast and Jay could get his milkshake fix. (Note: This has become a standing order with almost all meals and the Jay's Favorite Milkshakes In Bali list is pending- he's doing the leg work to figure out the best.)

We boarded our AirAsia flight without incident (unless you count the terminal losing full power and plunging into darkness as an incident- in that case, we had consistent incidents leading up to boarding- but why would an airpot need power?) AirAsia is best likened to the Spirit Airlines of southeast Asia, though it makes Spirit look like the Ritz.  Jay's legs were not too pleased, and as the drink and snack carts passed we were swiftly informed that not even water or ice were free.  Thank goodness it was a short flight- my lips were peeling off.  

We had a glimmer of hope before takeoff, as two entire rows ahead of us were vacant.  Even better, they were the emergency rows with a precious extra centimeter of leg room.  We were swiftly informed that those seats cost extra, as they had red chair toppers.  Jay quickly realized those could be removed, but we felt we'd been scolded enough for one day.  Jay dozed off as I asked him if they'd charge me to save the plane in case of an emergency landing.  I channeled my defeat into finishing my book, and the three hours flew by.  All in all, an easy flight.  And when I say "all in all" I mean the free air. 

Robe Life

Robe Life

Joking aside, our flight was on time and smooth- you get what you pay for and we were quickly on the ground, through Malaysia customs, and in an Uber.  Uber is allowed to come to the airport in Malaysia and is the most affordable way to get around (along with another app called Grab).  We struck gold with our Uber driver, Azizudin.  He was part driver, part tour guide and his English was near perfect.  We learned that his father is a high school teacher in Malaysia, his brother attended university and currently lives in New York, and we got unlimited access to information on the hour drive from the airpot to Kuala Lumpur.  We were laughing and I couldn't help but marvel at the continued hospitality and joy of all the people we've met in our travels.  

My favorite part was when we passed Ikea and he proudly proclaimed that KL (what the locals call Kuala Lumpur) has an eek-E-a. He cracked up when I told him my frustration and PTSD from trying to build Ikea furniture, and said many people just go for the food.  We bonded over the Swedish meatballs.  I don't care where you go in the world- there are always commonalities and my favorite part of travel is finding them.  He was the perfect way to kick off our long weekend in KL.

As we approached at The Pacific Regency Hotel Suites the traffic picked up- Azizudin told us that KL was modeled after NYC in many ways, and the traffic definitely reflects that.  There are also big television screens and a Time Square shopping center.  There so much energy and were awed to see our hotel in the heart of the city, directly next to famous KL Tower.  We can see it from our room that sits on the 28th floor and looks out at the blinking city lights.  And my favorite part?  Of course the robes.  Give me a robe and give Jay a milkshake; we won't even mind if you withhold water or legroom.