Playing in Playa

Entrance to CASA BOHEME

Casa Boheme has been a magical home for us this week in Playa del Carmen, and we highly recommend you explore Air BnB when you travel.  Each night we leave the loud, tourist streets and zig zag through local blocks to get to our oasis.  Large families sit together every night to eat and laugh and talk into the night.  Babies bounce on laps, dogs circle at feet, the smell of fresh tortillas tranquilizes.  Mexico is charming.

We've had the gift of my mama, brother, and sister joining us for the week, and they're staying about a mile away at Acanto Hotel.  These condos are tucked away on a block by the beach; they feature balconies that look out to large trees with sweeping vines that sway next to strings of lights and colorful lanterns. All a pack, we've explored the oceans, jungle, and cenotes (See Jay's blog above). We've also embarked on a foodie tour.  Let's start with breakfast...

BREAKFAST IN PLAYA DEL CARMEN:

Madrez! Cafe- With a tiny kitchen and patio seating for about 10 patrons, Madrez! is small in-size and large in flavor. My brother made moaning noises with his savory waffle that came with eggs, bacon, and syrup on top, and I think Jay teared up at his first sip of homemade lemonade.  My sister's caramel latte was something from a dream. 

Dos Huevos- Down on the quieter end of bustling 5th Avenue, past Ave. CTM, sits unassuming Dos Huevos where you can go decadent (Jay's chicken and waffle tower) or healthy (a fresh fruit smoothie or bowl). 

Amorino: Gelato al Naturale- Ice cream for breakfast? Only if you add a crepe, caramel, and whipped cream. Each crepe comes with three gelato flavors and we're partial to the vanilla, yogurt, and milk chocolate (although the banana sorbet almost made this an appropriate adult breakfast).

DINNER IN PLAYA DEL CARMEN:

"Where did lunch go?" you might ask.  Well, on "Mexico time", breakfast is around noon and a churro loop sustains you until dinner.  We've all agreed that Playa has some of the best food in the world, and I personally wasn't expecting the variety and creative flavors.

Plank- Our server had a wooden bowtie and the rest of the experience followed in class and fun.  Steaks are served with table-side stones so that you can sear each bite before eating.  Our dessert brownie came on a chilled stone. Who doesn't love a place that encourages guests to play with their food?

Piola- Looking for Italian food in Playa? Nestled in the part of Ave. 38 that's completely enclosed in trees, Jay and I felt like we were back in Bali. Live acoustic music fills the art and colorful lanterns sway from the ceiling.  Zucchini noodles can be subbed into any pasta dish and my mom's salmon was dreamy. 

Imprevist- Tucked away from the lively crowds, Imprevist sits on a cobblestone street with a colorful candle shop glowing nearby.  This is the best food I've ever had- they do all sorts of Asian favorites and my brother had to order a second tuna tartare because the lemon whip on top was too good.  Jay's vindaloo was as beautiful as my green curry and we were pleasantly surprised by the octopus appetizer that the chef sent out.  Innovative, fresh, and flavorful! 

Live Aqua Boutique Hotel Rooftop Pool- Jay and I stumbled upon this rooftop restaurant when we were walking home one night.  Sitting a few stories above the city, tropical house music and sparkling wine had us lulled into a trance.  A loud pop surprised us and fireworks went up from the street next to us, dripping down into the pool next to our table.  This is one of the most intimate places we've found on our travels.  Get the ceviche!

ART:

La 5th Hacienda- As delicious as the food in Playa del Carmen, the art scene is world class.  If you're looking for beautiful ceramic work, large canvas pieces from local artists, or one of a kind glass work, go see Alex at La 5th Hacienda.  He spent so much time talking through the history of the pieces in his shop and all larger items ship for free.  He excitedly wrote out recommendations for the upcoming cities on our trip and his shop is a must-stop. 

RELAXATION:

Quinto Elemento Spa- This tiny spa on Ave. CTM is easy to pass, but not to be missed.  Our deep tissue massages were a bargain but some of the best we've ever had.  The massage concluded with caramel cake and apple cider- hard to top that.  There's something about the caramel in Mexico...

At the risk of make you think that all we're doing is eating and laying around, I'm passing the computer to Jay so he can fill you in on our adventures in Playa.  Will the food in Tulum be able to complete? We'll let you know next week. 

Octopus at Imprevist

5th Avenue sparkle

Casa Boheme

Live Aqua

Kecak

The Rolling Fork, Uluwatu

Our rainy week has continued, but we're making the most of it by trying amazing new restaurants, running in the rain, and surfing as much as possible.  

One of our favorite restaurants is called The Rolling Fork.  It opened the week we arrived, and has amazing homemade pastas, lava cake, and gelato.  Yesterday, Jay took advantage of the extended breakfast menu and got afternoon pancakes.  The lemongrass ginger tea is my favorite (mostly because it comes with cookies).  It's a must stop place if you're visiting Uluwatu.    

Yesterday was the opening ceremony of the Rip Curl Cup, where they announced the full list of invitees (Tom Curren and Bruce Irons are some of the international riders).  The contest theme is "When it's on, it's on" and it means just that- the surfers stay in Uluwatu from July 10-August 10 and as soon as Padang Padang shows epic conditions the contest starts.  

They brought up a bunch of the local surfers who have won in the past, including Mega Semadhi, the champion from last year. Interestingly enough, he's in training to become an Indonesian priest.  All of the local riders are super humble and it was clear from the opening ceremony that Padang Padang is a special place, with many spiritual ties.  Monkeys swing from the trees above the stairs that cascade down the cliff, which creates an amphitheater leading into one of the best surf breaks in the world.  There's a special power and energy there.

To conclude the opening ceremony of the surf contest, dozens of dancers appeared to perform the traditional Kecak Fire Dance.  I'll never forget the sound they make, and we hope you can hear it from this short video.  

The white monkey was my favorite, though at one point he was carrying a Bintang around and I don't think the beer was part of the customary Hindu performance and story. 

Tomorrow we're heading north along the western coast of Bali to explore Seminyak, Kuta, and Canggu.  Have a beautiful week and pray for sunshine.