The Soaked Survivors

Shorelines of Gili 

Yesterday we were able to get on a fast boat back to Bali, though the company informed us we'd be going to a completely different dock because of weather.  We didn't care, so long as we could get off the Gilis.  So at noon, we shoved our way onto a boat and pushed our way to the top deck.  On our ride to the Gilis, we had been in the seats on the lower level, and with small windows the crashing and swaying felt intense.  We decided the covered, open air deck would give us a nice breeze (and we'd be the first to see land).

About 20 other people had the same idea, and as we set for our three hour ride, the guys running the boat put on club music, started selling beers, and it seems liked like a sunny, good time.  People were up dancing and everyone was smiling.  

Jay and I sat next to older German couples, who had also gotten stuck on the Gilis.  Their boat had needed maintenance the day before, so they'd decided to wait a day and rebook with a different company.  Apparently the boat they avoided had been overloaded, a lady fell overboard, and people were throwing up because of the chop.  We felt lucky to be on our fun boat, wind in our hair.

It started with gentle sprays of water, misting our faces.  And before we could even register, waves of water were spraying onto the boat.  We were all soaked in minutes, and remained that way for the final two hours of the trip.  The guys running the boat seemed unphased, and danced on.  

All we could do was laugh and I kept thinking, "I've never done this before."  We showed up at the dock soaked and shivering, all passengers smiling at each other and making remarks of survivors.  We are glad to be back to Uluwatu, thankful for our beautiful time on the Gilis and taking in our last week before our final days in Lembongan. 

The cutest breakfast at Manusia Dunia 

Snorkling Gili Meno

Stylizing the Ombok pool

my favorite wall on gili air

Look closely at my watermelon juice!

leaving our mark on gili meno

Already August

Manusia Dunia Green Lodge, Gili Air

I have no idea how it is already August.  Time is a funny thing.  Some lazy afternoons seem to last forever and then all of a sudden the plans we made and adventures we dreamed up have become stories, and photographs, and memories.  Our neatly packed bags are strewn across islands, jammed with sea shells, horse shoes, maps, tickets, and a whole lot of life. 

I'm sitting on our porch on a tiny island called Gili Air.  Jay is sleeping in while I sip tea and blog to the sound of the rooster crowing.  We spent our last days on Gili Trawangan catching breathtaking sunsets and exploring life under water.

Exile Beach Sunset Point, Gili Trawangan

Jay and I love scuba.  I think Jay's as at home in the water as he is on land and scuba is the perfect fit for us.  On the Gili Islands, you take boats out to different spots and our first stop was Turtle Point.  The boat was packed with people and while heading to the spot the locals throw wetsuits, booties, fins, and vests at divers.  Do they fit?  Well enough.  They didn't ask for proof of our certification or number of dives.  The honor system is alive and well in Indonesia. 

The dive groups are small, and Jay and I had one other girl and a "dive master" accompanying us.  (I put that in quotes because we knew he was a certified dive master about as much as he knew we were certified at all.  Honor system.) 

When it was our turn we quickly checked our tanks and suited up, sitting on the edge of the boat like we'd seen others do.  Mind you, we entered from the shore on previous dives so entering the water by boat was new.  I asked a few questions and was quickly shushed by Indiana Jay.  "Just lean back!" he said.  And we did.  And we were fine. 

Turtle Point, north of Gili Meno

As quickly as we fell backwards off the boat, our dive master said, "Let's go down," and our adventure began.  Jay and I, pun intended, dove right in, feeling grateful that we were trained by the legend, Avandy.  We knew exactly what we were doing and had a great dive.  I tend to overthink things, and this trip has been a great lesson in running on instincts and just "doing".  

So many parts of life you can only figure out as you go.  I'm learning that more every day. 

Massive turtles and eels and colorful coral were everywhere.  I can't even put into words our time under water.  It makes us awestruck every time.  Tomorrow we will dive again off Gili Air, the smaller Gili Island closest to Lombok.  Stay tuned for that.

But how did we get to Gili Air?  Funny you should ask.  There are two boat options: slow boat and fast boat done by private charters.  You can imagine which one is the bargain price, and at this point probably know that Jay and I always take the bargain price.  For about $4 USD a person, we took the slow boat (40 minutes) from Gili T to Gili Air.  I don't know that "slow" is the right adjective for the boat; I like to call it the adventure boat. 

If the boat looks sideways, it's because it is.

But we made it to the Gili Air dock

My most vivid memories of those 40 minutes are water flying in, the boat careening side to side, and planks popping up as people walked down the middle of the boat.  You get what you pay for.  I eyed the life vests figuring out a strategy to float our bags and use that flotation system like a kick board to get to shore.  Luckily, this terrible idea never had to be tested.  

The shoreline approached, and the bluish green waters welcomed us to another beautiful island.  Gili Air is even smaller and more remote than Gili T, with all the charm that comes with that remoteness and simplicity.  We are staying at Manusia Dunia Green Lodge, where there are rechargeable lanterns because the electricity often goes out island-wide.  This happened twice during our dinner last night, and the live band just kept on singing.  Jay and I, having forgot our lanterns, walked home in the dark and fireworks erupted over one of the other Gili Islands. Life here doesn't seem real sometimes.  

As we head into the last two weeks of our trip, we're soaking it all up and missing all of our family and friends back home.  We can't wait to share our travels with you.  Thanks to everyone reading along with us- wishing you a beautiful August. 

Reading deck at Manusia Dunia, Gili Air

Peace on the porch, Manusia Dunia, Gili Air

Shells of Gili

Gili Air transport

KL Nightlife

After our Times Square experience (see previous blog) we needed a drink. Looking up a few spots, we landed on the most popular street, Jalan Ceylon, with restaurants, bars, and clubs all lined up next to each other. We sat down, had a few drinks, talked to a few of the employees, and people-watched. It was a really cool street, and the workers were telling us that at night, they block off the street as people are flooded everywhere until 3-4 a.m. As we relaxed from the mall madness, I did some research on where to view the Petronas Twin Towers at night. It seemed like a must do in KL. I found Sky Bar on top of the Traders Hotel that had the best view in town.

So there we went. We put on our best outfits and headed to the 33rd floor of Traders Hotel. We had to pay a little cover charge, but it included a free drink upon entry. Sky Bar had a long pool in the middle with lounges and bars surrounding, and did not disappoint with the view of the towers. All lit up, we took some amazing pictures, listened to great music, and enjoyed the view. After an hour or so, we decided to head back to Jalan Ceylon Street to see the madness at night.

We stopped at a restaurant called The Rabbit Hole where Chantal and I enjoyed our dinner until 2 girl employees ran up to Chantal, super giddy, thinking she was Celine Dion. They gave me their phone and said, "Can you take a picture of us and Celine?” “Sure, I guess.” It was absolutely hysterical seeing them pose with Chantal. Wearing heals, she could have been 2 feet taller than these girls. We had a good laugh with them and chatted for awhile.  Everyone we've met in Malaysia has been personable and excited to hear that we're from the U.S.  There are a lot of Brits, but we seemed to stand out.

After dinner, we walked down the street with music bumping from every bar. When we called it quits at 2 a.m., the street was in full swing.  

Take the Long Way Home

Our stay at Canggu (pronounced CHAN-goo) came to an end and we set off on our way home, but not without some classic stops.  South of Canggu is Seminyak, where we had an epic brunch at Sisterfield, rated one of the best restaurants in Bali but completely unassuming on its corner.  Swanky and hip, the wifi password was “UlookGoodInBikini”- maybe not after eating there! 

My fried eggs had dill in them and between that and the smashed avocado I was in Heaven.  As if that wasn’t enough, we stumbled into MadPops ice cream shop and couldn’t resist their coconut ice cream on a cone.  More Heaven.  Later, we ducked into speakeasy-esque coffee shop, Revolver, hidden down an alley and it was like slipping into another time and continent. 

Seminyak has a hipster vibe to it, remixed with Bali classics like the fish pedicure.  Jay couldn’t resist that one.  We had some fun in the shops, pretty much said “yes” to everything, and had a perfect, casual Thursday afternoon.  Jay handled the crazy traffic like a local, performing a new trick that I call the “foot slap”- slipping between the curb and aggressive traffic, the bike becomes unstable during the weaving and the best way to combat this is to stretch out the leg closest to the curb and slap the flip-flopped foot repeatedly against it as you pray through the madness.  “Foot slap” makes a noise that I will not soon forget, but got us to Kuta for a great ramen dinner (we’ve been craving pho and found a great spot at Kuta Beach Walk) and home safely back to Uluwatu.

First small detour worth mentioning: On our way to Kuta we realized that the 3D Museum was close to us.  (If you’ve never used maps.me, it’s an AMAZING app that downloads maps and then navigates without wifi- we use it to get everywhere, and it’s perfect about 75% of the time.  Nothing a few “foot slaps” can’t handle, and it reveals interesting places like the 3D Museum.)  I know what you may be thinking…this sounds touristy.  Aren’t you the tourists who hate tourists?  Yes. To all claims.  They took our shoes, so barefoot and ticket paid we forged on. And the first few rooms were terribly lame.  The art is incredible, don’t get me wrong, but the poses are mostly ridiculous and the employees there to frame your photos seem about as excited as the Chuck-E-Cheese workers in America (without big furry mouse heads to hide their lack of enthusiasm inside).  However, we decided to go with it and ended up laughing hysterically and loving the goofy, terrible photos.  The optical illusions are pretty spectacular on some of them, and when you watch other tourists lay on the floors to get the shot you pretty much have to up your tourist game.  Done and done.

Another small detour worth mentioning: Before leaving Seminyak, a promoter stopped us.  He was wearing a Karma Beach shirt, which I recognized from beach parties advertised around town.  Jay had just gotten his feet exfoliated by fish, so we must have looked boujee. He handed us sealed promotional cards, which we opened to reveal “prizes”.  Jay won two t-shirts, but I got the golden ticket: a 7 night stay at one of the Karma Beach Villa Properties (Bali, Vietnam, Thailand, Germany, or India), a GoPro, or 2 million rupiah ($150 ish cash).  The only catch was that we had to scratch off the official prize AT the Karma Beach Jimbaran property, after a “short” presentation.

Jay said scam, but I think he was just bitter with his two t shirts.  So he humored me the following morning.  See next blog. 

A hint for how to find Revolver

That is not me getting braids in the background

sunset at kuta beach

Open Waters

If you ever come to Bali and want to get Scuba Certified, you have to find Avandy Djunaidi: the man, the myth, the legend.  He owns BIDP (Bali International Dive Professionals) and has been diving since 1981.  He’s like underwater Yoda, calm but meticulous in his instruction.  He understands the technique, but also the intricate ecosystems and marine life.  And everywhere we went, he was recognized and adored.  We struck gold in having our first scuba experience with him.

We got open water certified at Tulamben, a WW2 wreck of the Liberty.  The story goes that it was a cargo ship, but inside sources revealed that it was actually loaded with guns and quickly cleared when hit by a Japanese submarine.  Now, it’s covered in amazing varieties of coral and sealife.  The clarity is exceptional and it’s surreal to 1. breath under water 2. explore the wreckage and how much life has grown around it.  As with the shipwreck on the beach near Single Fin, it’s a testament that life goes on and heals around all our scars.

Tanks at Tulamben shoreline

One of the hardest things about scuba diving is achieving buoyancy, essentially finding a state of suspension at any depth, almost like an astronaut in the water.  The goal is to use your lungs and air intake to monitor your level, exhaling to go deeper and being able to relax, suspended, without finning in any direction.  As you can imagine, this takes a lot of patience and a lot of practice to learn your body and air intake needs.  I am not a very patient person, and my first dive was incredibly frustrating.  Jay naturally mastered it, no surprise to anyone who knows his natural athletic ability, but it finally clicked for me on the second dive.

There’s a lag time- when you inhale deeply, it takes a second or two for your body to rise.  A few deep exhales, and some patience, and your body will drop.  Underwater, time is magnified and, at first, I didn’t trust those few seconds or give my body time to adjust- I went straight for the quick fix solution, my BC inflatable vest, to get me where I wanted to be.

The metaphor was glaring: life takes time to settle and instant gratification changes may be the norm in our society, but they don’t push us to understand ourselves and grow our own resourcefulness and resiliency. So often, we make a choice in life and watch expectantly for life to quickly make the adjustment (hopefully in our favor) but we have no patience for the lag time.  We have no patience for the long-term plan.  

It’s another lesson in being present.  Breathing in and breathing out, but also taking in what’s around us.  Seeing that remarkable polka dot fish to our right, the brain coral to our left, and not worrying about much else beyond that moment.  We are learning to settle into life, and take it just as it is: with all of its beauty and all of its shipwrecks.

Open Water Certified!

The Art of Living

Although we have general plans for things we want to do and see (scuba certification begins tomorrow!), we are generally facing an open itinerary.  We are free to schedule or not schedule- to explore or to be- to sleep when we’re tired and eat when we’re hungry.  This sounds simple, and maybe even silly, but it’s an odd phenomenon to live without confines.  

So many choices in our traditional lives are made for us, and even on trips the time restrictions of vacations generally create a schedule and a pacing.

So what do you do when you can do absolutely anything you want?

You have to be present.  You get the challenge and the gift of being present.  Food is a wonder and an art; fresh juices nourish and add pops of color to the day.  Walking is scenic, rather than mundane.  Smells and sounds are more acute.  Conversation is everything.

It’s an art of exploring the people as much as the places.  It’s a dance of miscommunicating with locals and realizing things taken for granted without a language and cultural barrier.  It’s a deep look at your own culture and norms: What generally drives your life and dictates your time? 

Suarga Padang Padang, Uluwatu