Good Morning, Malaysia

Our day started at 4:30 am and we were off to the airport in time to catch our early flight to Malaysia.  We're doing a long weekend in Kuala Lumpur- getting a change of pace from island life (and also avoiding outstaying our 30 day tourist visa by a day or so).  You can pay a small amount to extend the tourist visa an extra 30 days, but with $80 roundtrip flights, we opted for the adventure.

We breezed through customs, were taken on our word that we'd been in Indonesia 29 days (not the visa limit of 30), and headed to a restaurant so we could get breakfast and Jay could get his milkshake fix. (Note: This has become a standing order with almost all meals and the Jay's Favorite Milkshakes In Bali list is pending- he's doing the leg work to figure out the best.)

We boarded our AirAsia flight without incident (unless you count the terminal losing full power and plunging into darkness as an incident- in that case, we had consistent incidents leading up to boarding- but why would an airpot need power?) AirAsia is best likened to the Spirit Airlines of southeast Asia, though it makes Spirit look like the Ritz.  Jay's legs were not too pleased, and as the drink and snack carts passed we were swiftly informed that not even water or ice were free.  Thank goodness it was a short flight- my lips were peeling off.  

We had a glimmer of hope before takeoff, as two entire rows ahead of us were vacant.  Even better, they were the emergency rows with a precious extra centimeter of leg room.  We were swiftly informed that those seats cost extra, as they had red chair toppers.  Jay quickly realized those could be removed, but we felt we'd been scolded enough for one day.  Jay dozed off as I asked him if they'd charge me to save the plane in case of an emergency landing.  I channeled my defeat into finishing my book, and the three hours flew by.  All in all, an easy flight.  And when I say "all in all" I mean the free air. 

Robe Life

Joking aside, our flight was on time and smooth- you get what you pay for and we were quickly on the ground, through Malaysia customs, and in an Uber.  Uber is allowed to come to the airport in Malaysia and is the most affordable way to get around (along with another app called Grab).  We struck gold with our Uber driver, Azizudin.  He was part driver, part tour guide and his English was near perfect.  We learned that his father is a high school teacher in Malaysia, his brother attended university and currently lives in New York, and we got unlimited access to information on the hour drive from the airpot to Kuala Lumpur.  We were laughing and I couldn't help but marvel at the continued hospitality and joy of all the people we've met in our travels.  

My favorite part was when we passed Ikea and he proudly proclaimed that KL (what the locals call Kuala Lumpur) has an eek-E-a. He cracked up when I told him my frustration and PTSD from trying to build Ikea furniture, and said many people just go for the food.  We bonded over the Swedish meatballs.  I don't care where you go in the world- there are always commonalities and my favorite part of travel is finding them.  He was the perfect way to kick off our long weekend in KL.

As we approached at The Pacific Regency Hotel Suites the traffic picked up- Azizudin told us that KL was modeled after NYC in many ways, and the traffic definitely reflects that.  There are also big television screens and a Time Square shopping center.  There so much energy and were awed to see our hotel in the heart of the city, directly next to famous KL Tower.  We can see it from our room that sits on the 28th floor and looks out at the blinking city lights.  And my favorite part?  Of course the robes.  Give me a robe and give Jay a milkshake; we won't even mind if you withhold water or legroom. 

From Pirates to Paradise

Chantal and I woke up yesterday morning and felt the urge to do some exploring, and we have talked about visiting Nusa Dua for a while. It is located on the south eastern tip of Bali and would only take about 30 minutes to motorbike there (of course I get us there in 20). Not knowing too much about the area, we googled some fun things to do in the area and somehow landed on Pirate Bay restaurant as a starting point. 

We started our journey driving through town after town separated by country backroads with cows spread across the lands. (That's just what I heard from Chantal as I was too focused on passing the traffic to get us there.) Arriving in the area, there was a huge entrance with 2 lanes with a guard patrolling (one for cars and one for motorbikes). I slowed down, a little, then sped through with my head down. We got a "HEY! WHERE ARE YOU GOING?" and all I heard faintly was Chantal's voice saying, "luuunnncchh," as we scootered in. We got a good laugh out of that because I promised that we wouldn't stop in situations like this anymore; the last time we were interrogated and had to pay 300,000 rupiah for a make-believe international driving permit. Also, I have noticed before that others just speed by because the "officers" are not going to chase after you.  We're becoming more local by the day.

Finally, we made it to Pirate Bay! We parked and scanned the area. We saw the fenced off, pirate ship and it looked like an absolute dump with trash everywhere, and kids screaming in the background. Chantal and I looked at each other and said let's just walk the other way and find a deli or restaurant. We walked around the corner and the path led us to victory. It opened up to beautiful resorts and beaches everywhere. We were in absolute tourist paradise, and quickly realized we were amongst some of the most exclusive, expensive resorts on the island.  Naturally, we decided we belonged.

The MelIa

Luxury lunch set up

We took a detour through The Laguna resort that was beyond luxurious. It had monster pools on top of monster pools that wrapped the resort like a castle. We fell upon a little deli and had the best brunch of our lives that included chicken waffle sandwiches and banana vanilla nutella milkshakes.  Nobody questioned us, and we continued to make ourselves at home. 

The Laguna Nusa Dua

Taking advantage of the amenities 

Lunch time views at the Laguna

Pretending to read the wine menu

After lunch, we went back to the path and walked up the coastline, with more resorts to our left and  sun beds on the beaches to our right with parasailing, kite surfing, and paddle boarding in the distance. There was security everywhere and cameras in every cocunut tree it seemed. We tried to walk into another resort and were immediately questioned by a security man who could have come from the bushes.... "Umm, no sir we don't stay here. We stay at the Laguna Luxury suites." We left and laughed all the way back enjoying all the views. What a great day to pretend we stayed at a $600/night luxury resort and spa.

Pay attention to the sign

Nusa Dua shore

Taking it all in

Making friends at the Laguna

Take the Long Way Home

Our stay at Canggu (pronounced CHAN-goo) came to an end and we set off on our way home, but not without some classic stops.  South of Canggu is Seminyak, where we had an epic brunch at Sisterfield, rated one of the best restaurants in Bali but completely unassuming on its corner.  Swanky and hip, the wifi password was “UlookGoodInBikini”- maybe not after eating there! 

My fried eggs had dill in them and between that and the smashed avocado I was in Heaven.  As if that wasn’t enough, we stumbled into MadPops ice cream shop and couldn’t resist their coconut ice cream on a cone.  More Heaven.  Later, we ducked into speakeasy-esque coffee shop, Revolver, hidden down an alley and it was like slipping into another time and continent. 

Seminyak has a hipster vibe to it, remixed with Bali classics like the fish pedicure.  Jay couldn’t resist that one.  We had some fun in the shops, pretty much said “yes” to everything, and had a perfect, casual Thursday afternoon.  Jay handled the crazy traffic like a local, performing a new trick that I call the “foot slap”- slipping between the curb and aggressive traffic, the bike becomes unstable during the weaving and the best way to combat this is to stretch out the leg closest to the curb and slap the flip-flopped foot repeatedly against it as you pray through the madness.  “Foot slap” makes a noise that I will not soon forget, but got us to Kuta for a great ramen dinner (we’ve been craving pho and found a great spot at Kuta Beach Walk) and home safely back to Uluwatu.

First small detour worth mentioning: On our way to Kuta we realized that the 3D Museum was close to us.  (If you’ve never used maps.me, it’s an AMAZING app that downloads maps and then navigates without wifi- we use it to get everywhere, and it’s perfect about 75% of the time.  Nothing a few “foot slaps” can’t handle, and it reveals interesting places like the 3D Museum.)  I know what you may be thinking…this sounds touristy.  Aren’t you the tourists who hate tourists?  Yes. To all claims.  They took our shoes, so barefoot and ticket paid we forged on. And the first few rooms were terribly lame.  The art is incredible, don’t get me wrong, but the poses are mostly ridiculous and the employees there to frame your photos seem about as excited as the Chuck-E-Cheese workers in America (without big furry mouse heads to hide their lack of enthusiasm inside).  However, we decided to go with it and ended up laughing hysterically and loving the goofy, terrible photos.  The optical illusions are pretty spectacular on some of them, and when you watch other tourists lay on the floors to get the shot you pretty much have to up your tourist game.  Done and done.

Another small detour worth mentioning: Before leaving Seminyak, a promoter stopped us.  He was wearing a Karma Beach shirt, which I recognized from beach parties advertised around town.  Jay had just gotten his feet exfoliated by fish, so we must have looked boujee. He handed us sealed promotional cards, which we opened to reveal “prizes”.  Jay won two t-shirts, but I got the golden ticket: a 7 night stay at one of the Karma Beach Villa Properties (Bali, Vietnam, Thailand, Germany, or India), a GoPro, or 2 million rupiah ($150 ish cash).  The only catch was that we had to scratch off the official prize AT the Karma Beach Jimbaran property, after a “short” presentation.

Jay said scam, but I think he was just bitter with his two t shirts.  So he humored me the following morning.  See next blog. 

A hint for how to find Revolver

That is not me getting braids in the background

sunset at kuta beach

Team No Stop

On the 4th of July, I hiked the Matternhorn with Indiana (Jay) Jones- it was really Mt. Batur, an active volcano in northern Bali, but it was an epic adventure that I'm not sure either of us was prepared for.  As I recount, Indiana Jay will be giving his two cents (found in italics).

Chantal and I got to bed early that night because we were getting picked up at 1:30am by our favorite driver, Gung (who we met when we were in Bali in February). The adventure to Mt. Batur was about 2 hours away, and we slept through most of the ride. It was really intense arriving to  crowds of people at the base of the volcano, who we later found out were all tour guides who hike Mt. Batur every day. Paying our entrance fee, we were handed baby flashlights as we embarked on our journey up the mountain in the pitch black.

Mind you, neither if us had considered bringing flashlights and had debated trying to skirt the tour guides and hike by ourselves.  We would probably still be out there somewhere.  Although there was a path, there were different trails winding off of it and our flashlights were likely made by Mattel, not REI.  This was not a winding climb; this was an intense hike up loose boulders, sliding gravel, and sand that slid you back a foot with each step.  The last half hour was nearly vertical.  Our guide in the lead, I followed Indiana Jay- though he was bounding up like a gazelle and I was seriously questioning my proclamation to the guide that we "hike all the time". Despite this, we managed to make it to the summit in an hour and a half (most people take two).  Our guide kept asking if we were okay- it was too dark for him to see us lie the entire way up and say we were fine, but we made it. 

As we were sweating to death up this mountain, a lot was going through my mind. I was convincing myself that we were going to make it even though our legs said no more. As Chantal mentioned, the tour guide kept asking if we needed a break every 10 minutes. I was like, "NO, WE ARE TEAM NO STOP!" Anyway, we could have been the first couple of people at the top since we passed all the "Team Must Stop" people. It was freezing and our guide parked us on a bench hanging off the cliff as he scurried away in a little hut. Chantal and I used our body heat to keep warm on this stiff, unfriendly bench until we said screw it! Let's sit in this hut to hide from the winds. Time went on until we had 20 people, guides and tourists, in this hut meant for 6.

There's a reason why we were cold.  We hiked miles UP a mountain, before sunrise (hence the name "Sunrise Hike").  I convinced Indiana Jay at the last minute that a tank top and shorts would not suffice, so he threw in a windbreaker and long sleeve shirt. I had a long sleeve shirt and sweatshirt over my tank top, also in shorts- I'm not sure why I was so smug.  We were both Balinese Popsicles.  Going up the mountain we'd been burning hot in tank tops, and in Indiana Jay's quest to pass EVERYONE on the mountain we made epic time.  What we didn't factor in (in addition to the flashlight and warm clothes) was that getting up quicker means waiting longer for the sun to come up.  Thank goodness for the hut that housed the rest of the under-dressed tourists.  

Being at the top watching the sunrise with hundreds of other people was absolutely breathtaking. The clouds and fog rolling through beneath us, the huge lake, all the villages, and other mountains gave us perspective on our journey. We took it all in as we stayed up there for an hour or so before we fell all the way down. Just kidding, but I could count on 2 hands how many people wiped out attempting to get down this beast of a mountain. Chantal and I were mind blown on the way down as it shocked us what we actually hiked up in the dark that we couldn't see originally. Our tour guide was awesome and the experience was priceless.  

Sunrise at the top of Mt. Batur

Fog rolling through

Priceless, but not enough for Indiana Jay.  After 4 hours of strenuous hiking as "Team No Stop" (running on a can of Pringles that we split) Jay convinced our driver to find a series of hidden waterfalls.  That 2 hour expedition around dirt roads and villages led to another hour trek down wonky stairs and steep terrain, but the rice paddies surrounding us were almost as beautiful as our destination: the elusive Fiji Waterfall and Sekumpul Waterfall. We joked about living down there in a little hut, half because it was so spectacular and half because our legs were screaming "Team Stop Forever".    

Indiana Jay

These waterfalls were absolute magic. We got to swim in the base of each waterfall and it was the freshest water I have ever been in. The energy and power from these waterfalls were incredibly strong and it almost felt like we were fresh and reenergized after frolicking in them. I felt like the happiest kid in the world swimming in these pools and getting knocked around by the pressure of them. Pictures don't do it justice as Chantal and I both agreed that it was the most magical place we have ever been to. These waterfalls and the volcano are must dos if you come to Bali!

Pure bliss at Fiji Waterfall 

Happy 4th of July! 

The Art of Living

Although we have general plans for things we want to do and see (scuba certification begins tomorrow!), we are generally facing an open itinerary.  We are free to schedule or not schedule- to explore or to be- to sleep when we’re tired and eat when we’re hungry.  This sounds simple, and maybe even silly, but it’s an odd phenomenon to live without confines.  

So many choices in our traditional lives are made for us, and even on trips the time restrictions of vacations generally create a schedule and a pacing.

So what do you do when you can do absolutely anything you want?

You have to be present.  You get the challenge and the gift of being present.  Food is a wonder and an art; fresh juices nourish and add pops of color to the day.  Walking is scenic, rather than mundane.  Smells and sounds are more acute.  Conversation is everything.

It’s an art of exploring the people as much as the places.  It’s a dance of miscommunicating with locals and realizing things taken for granted without a language and cultural barrier.  It’s a deep look at your own culture and norms: What generally drives your life and dictates your time? 

Suarga Padang Padang, Uluwatu