Pit Stop: Chichén Itzá

As we said goodbye to Tulum, we directed our rental car 160+ miles across the Yucatán to capital city, Mérida. This is a predominantly two lane highway with dense jungle on both sides.  Small towns pop up every 30 miles or so, but generally it's a whole lot of sky and trees.  One of the main reasons we rented the car was to stop at Chichén Itzá (about two hours from Tulum and one hour from Mérida).  Recently given the acclaimed "Wonder of the World" status, we were excited to see this ancient Mayan city. 

As you pull off the highway, locals wave big hats at you, reminding you that you are not adapted to the climate and could potentially evaporate without sun protection.  As you pay a few dollars to park, you find yourself at the front of a Disneyland-esque opening gate and it costs 255 pesos a person to enter (about $25 for the two of us).  Once inside, you walk down a long dirt road to reach the heart of the ruins, flanked with wood carvers hocking masks, coloring clothing vendors, and -my favorite- the vendors with the noise makers that sound like a jaguar snarl.  In the heat, it's hard to really know what's happening.  The guided groups had hats and umbrellas, but Jay and I couldn't be bothered.  We forged on. 

The ruins truly are spectacular, especially when you think about how long they've endured.  El Castillo, the focal temple, is crowded with tourists trying to get the perfect angle.  Jay set up his GoPro and we proceeded to jump about 1000 times trying to get the right shot.  We were dripping in sweat and I felt like Honey Boo Boo being badgered by a stage mom, but Jay was relentless. (Considering we've been living on tortillas, cheese, and caramel, I chalked it up to a modified Cross Fit: Chichén Itzá style.)

The massive cenote is blocked for swimming, but the ancient Mayans sent sacrifices of jade, gold, and humans into its depths, so we were content to marvel from above.  Overall, Chichén Itzá echoes with history, but is a bit muted by the tourist herds and haggling vendors. 

See hats and umbrellas in the background.

It's been real, Tulum

Tulum has been growing on us by the day. There is something in the air that gives us a feelings of peace and tranquility. Chantal and I kept expressing similarities Tulum has to parts of Bali. Each shop along the roads had its own spice and flavor that differentiates from the next.

Tulum street food

Getting ready for dinner, Chantal and I had this brilliant idea to bring small change and hit all the local street food carts sprinkled throughout the pueblo: a street food crawl, Mexico style! Each cart was surrounded by groups of locals enjoying the delicious servings for next to nothing. The locals thought it was strange that we stopped at these carts because the "tourists" usually go to sit down restaurants, but we put on our friendly smiles and conversed with the locals in our broken Spanish. Carnitas tacos in freshly made tortillas, hotdogs wrapped with bacon, chicken tostadas, el pastor con queso with a side of the most delicious horchata are just a few of the flavors to name. Each place was better than the next, and it was almost impossible not to get filled up on the first stop. Patience was, indeed, a virtue this time.  Total cost: $5.

After some brainstorming, Chantal and I decided to rent a car for 2 days so we could explore more of Tulum's wonders and also get to Merida the next day (3 hours, 160 miles inland). Grabbing our mini, white Ford Ikon, we raced south to Cenote Kaan Luum, just south of Tulum (recommended by a local restaurant owner). This place was pure magic, as we walked down the 50 foot pier that opened up to the most beautiful aquamarine colored water. Families gathered on the pier, as everyone swam around the cenote. The bottom had soft clay that exfoliated the skin. Chantal and I swam and lay on the dock taking in the amazing views. 

Cenote Kaan Luum 

Where's Jay? Hint: Upside down. In the air.

Cenote Cristalino was our 2nd stop, located between Playa Del Carmen and Tulum. Entering the cenote, you could feel the energy- kids splashing, people snorkeling, families conversing, and kids jumping off ledges. There were easily 4 different sunken fresh water pits that people could swim in. The water was so clear, and it had this sense of rejuvenation once you got out.

The large pit had a cliff, at least 20 feet high, that people would crowd around until they had the courage to jump. This scene had at least a hundred people watching, and the first thing that came to my mind was, "I have to do a backflip." I took the trail up, analyzed the scene, and watched as people built the nerve to jump. I asked around, "Has anybody flipped yet?" No. I took the stage, heels of my feet dangling off the ledge, and hit the gnarliest backflip as locals cheered! Great ending to our last day full day in Tulum.

The next day was the beginning to our adventure inland to Merida. We woke early, drove west a few kilometers, and stopped at a smaller, much more private cenote, Calavera. We got there at 8am, which is when Google told us it opened. We arrived and it was still closed. It stayed that way until 8:45..."Mexico flexico" in full effect. We payed our entrance fee, excitedly; as the first people to get in, we would have some tranquility in the fresh waters.

It got dark and eerie quickly. We were greeted by a massive iguana that looked like a dinosaur from Jurassic Park- it had Chantal shaking in her boots (sandals). This sunken pit had a ladder and a swing, and I was determined to get in. This place had a scary energy; bats flying in and out, fish nibbling at my feet, and strange bubbles surfacing from the bottom. My mind was racing, and as I descended down Chantal nervously took pictures from above. Not going to lie, I scurried to the rope, got a few picture for the Insta, and swam out of there for dear life. There was just something off being there alone, and after researching, Cenote Calavera translates to  "Temple of Doom" and has apparently inherited 125 skeletons from scuba divers who didn't make it out. Scary in the moment, laughing at it after.  El jefe, the iguana, watched up suspiciously the entire time.

Must eats in Tulum:

El Camelo - Mixed ceviche and Coca-Cola in a glass bottle

Umi Sushi Mix - If you need a break from Mexican food

Manglar - Best pizza and pasta in Tulum! 

Xscape Tulum - Huevos Motuleños and banana bread

Dessert Street Cart - Banana, strawberry, caramel, and Nutella crepe wrapped for $1

Lo Siento, Pablo Escobar

Yesterday we did NOT see Pablo Escobar's Tulum mansion (turned hotel- Casa Malca).  We did take a taxi to its gates. We were told we would need to spend 2000 pesos. We were carrying 300. We did NOT get inside those gates.  We did try to enter from the beach side.  We did get into his pool and fantastic beach teepees.  We did NOT get inside Pablo Escobar's Tulum mansion.

On the way to the beach, as we planned our alternative entrance to Casa Malca, we saw a cenote on our favorite app, Maps.me.  It was within walking distance, even in the 100 degree heat, and although we also tried to sneak down this path, we were stopped and charged 100 pesos.  We gave in, desperate to jump in the cool, fresh water.  

Excitedly, we shuffled down the jungle path to the Cenote Tulum (Yax Chen).  What we found was closer to a dirty pond with a thick top layer of bugs.  We did NOT swim in Yax Chen.  We got a refund and surged to the ocean for a breeze and to regroup.  

We inched closer and closer to Casa Malca, slipping into his fantastic circular bush for a photo.  It sounds worse now that I'm describing it, but we got as close as the pool and outdoor teepees.  The inside looks stunning in Instagram photos.  We just weren't willing to pay $100+ for them. 

5 star landscaping.  Sorry for trespassing, Señor Escobar.  

Tulum Tranquility

This morning I asked Jay what single word he would give to each place we've been so far on our Mexico adventure.

Cancun...tequila.  Isla Mujeres...charm. Playa del Carmen...alive.  

For Tulum, we settled on "soulful".  Tulum is a city of consciousness, thoughtful down to every last detail.  Shops, food, beaches, and architecture are all works of art, each designed as an opportunity to slow down, marvel, and connect.  Gone is the touristy neon of Playa; in its place are dusty mauve pillows, seas of soft white and beige linens, and shabby chic, rustic furniture for sun-streaked travelers to curl into as the evening breeze picks up.  Lanterns drip from trees and the bicycles with wicker baskets are the preferred mode of transportation.  You can get coconut or almond milk in your coffee, vegans are in Heaven, and an alchemist from Paris is nestled smack in the middle of it all.

Yogis mix with divers, with fishermen, with DJs, with chefs, with dreamers, with writers, with children, with languages, with sea salt, with love.  Tulum is more than soulful.  Tulum is soul-overflowing. 

There are two distinct segments of Tulum: the pueblo and the beach.  Our hotel is in the former, and the town boasts more affordable prices and a taste of local living.  Xscape is run by the most helpful, excited staff who eagerly greet us each day.  We've found Mexico welcoming and warm at every juncture. Burrito Amor is a few blocks away, and the home-made coconut tortillas keep us coming back.  Try the pulled pork and pineapple burrito.  

Beauty in simplicity: Xscape Tulum

Home is wherever I'm with you

A few miles from Avenida Tulum is the narrow street that divides the beach from the jungle.  Miles of boutique hotels, restaurants, yoga studios, and shops mosaic Zona Hotelera.   My family stayed at the El Paraiso Hotel, opening their cottage door to sand and hammocks.  We took a boat from their shore to snorkel with turtles, string rays, and electric colored fish; our captain stopped at a shoreline cenote where the cool, fresh water gurgled up against the ocean.  You can feel the difference between the fresh and salty water and the combination seems to wash away worries.

The Azulik Hotel is the crown jewel of Tulum, inviting travelers to be awestruck in the treetop hammocks of Kin Toh (the restaurant), tip toe barefoot through water features in Zak Ik (the boutique), and consider different perspective in Ik Lab (the art installation).  Like many spots in Tulum, the Azulik has created space to just "be". 

"Shopping" at Zak Ik 

Where's Jay?

Where's mama?

Ik Lab, Art Instalattion

A table with a view at Kin Toh, Tulum

A change in perspective at Ik Lab, Tulum

Casa Jaguar 

My brother and Jay loved the beachfront Ahua Jungle Gym with Flintstone style weights and contraptions, Raw Love has rejuvenating smoothie bowls and vegan pad thai, and Hotel Sotavento's Mexican pizza with carne asada is non-negotiable.  Casa Jaguar shone with craft cocktails, the red snapper catch of the day, and ossobuco; my sister is a churro connoisseur and gave them top ratings.  Jay's quote of the trip is, "Where is the bad food? We can't find bad food!" My mama hasn't found a guacamole that doesn't make her smile, and my new favorite Spanish word is "totopos", because we always need a few more tortilla chips. 

Raw Love relaxation

Jungle Gym gains

Raw Love vegan Pizza and Vanilla Smoothie Bowl

As we stay goodbye to our visitors, we welcome the second half of our trip.  We have a few more soulful days in Tulum, then head west and inland to the capital of the Yucatan: Merida.  Thank you to everyone following our journey.  Leave us questions in the comments or shoot us a message if there are things you want to hear more about.