Playa del Carmen — Adventures Abroad

Casa Boheme has been a magical home for us this week in Playa del Carmen, and we highly recommend you explore Air BnB when you travel. Each night we leave the loud, tourist streets and zig zag through local blocks to get to our oasis. Large families sit together every night to eat and laugh and talk into the night. Babies bounce on laps, dogs circle at feet, the smell of fresh tortillas tranquilizes. Mexico is charming.

We've had the gift of my mama, brother, and sister joining us for the week, and they're staying about a mile away at Acanto Hotel. These condos are tucked away on a block by the beach; they feature balconies that look out to large trees with sweeping vines that sway next to strings of lights and colorful lanterns. All a pack, we've explored the oceans, jungle, and cenotes (See Jay's blog above). We've also embarked on a foodie tour. Let's start with breakfast...

BREAKFAST IN PLAYA DEL CARMEN:

Madrez! Cafe- With a tiny kitchen and patio seating for about 10 patrons, Madrez! is small in-size and large in flavor. My brother made moaning noises with his savory waffle that came with eggs, bacon, and syrup on top, and I think Jay teared up at his first sip of homemade lemonade. My sister's caramel latte was something from a dream.

Dos Huevos- Down on the quieter end of bustling 5th Avenue, past Ave. CTM, sits unassuming Dos Huevos where you can go decadent (Jay's chicken and waffle tower) or healthy (a fresh fruit smoothie or bowl).

Amorino: Gelato al Naturale- Ice cream for breakfast? Only if you add a crepe, caramel, and whipped cream. Each crepe comes with three gelato flavors and we're partial to the vanilla, yogurt, and milk chocolate (although the banana sorbet almost made this an appropriate adult breakfast).

DINNER IN PLAYA DEL CARMEN:

"Where did lunch go?" you might ask. Well, on "Mexico time", breakfast is around noon and a churro loop sustains you until dinner. We've all agreed that Playa has some of the best food in the world, and I personally wasn't expecting the variety and creative flavors.

Plank- Our server had a wooden bowtie and the rest of the experience followed in class and fun. Steaks are served with table-side stones so that you can sear each bite before eating. Our dessert brownie came on a chilled stone. Who doesn't love a place that encourages guests to play with their food?

Piola- Looking for Italian food in Playa? Nestled in the part of Ave. 38 that's completely enclosed in trees, Jay and I felt like we were back in Bali. Live acoustic music fills the art and colorful lanterns sway from the ceiling. Zucchini noodles can be subbed into any pasta dish and my mom's salmon was dreamy.

Imprevist- Tucked away from the lively crowds, Imprevist sits on a cobblestone street with a colorful candle shop glowing nearby. This is the best food I've ever had- they do all sorts of Asian favorites and my brother had to order a second tuna tartare because the lemon whip on top was too good. Jay's vindaloo was as beautiful as my green curry and we were pleasantly surprised by the octopus appetizer that the chef sent out. Innovative, fresh, and flavorful!

Live Aqua Boutique Hotel Rooftop Pool- Jay and I stumbled upon this rooftop restaurant when we were walking home one night. Sitting a few stories above the city, tropical house music and sparkling wine had us lulled into a trance. A loud pop surprised us and fireworks went up from the street next to us, dripping down into the pool next to our table. This is one of the most intimate places we've found on our travels. Get the ceviche!

ART:

La 5th Hacienda- As delicious as the food in Playa del Carmen, the art scene is world class. If you're looking for beautiful ceramic work, large canvas pieces from local artists, or one of a kind glass work, go see Alex at La 5th Hacienda. He spent so much time talking through the history of the pieces in his shop and all larger items ship for free. He excitedly wrote out recommendations for the upcoming cities on our trip and his shop is a must-stop.

RELAXATION:

Quinto Elemento Spa- This tiny spa on Ave. CTM is easy to pass, but not to be missed. Our deep tissue massages were a bargain but some of the best we've ever had. The massage concluded with caramel cake and apple cider- hard to top that. There's something about the caramel in Mexico...

At the risk of make you think that all we're doing is eating and laying around, I'm passing the computer to Jay so he can fill you in on our adventures in Playa. Will the food in Tulum be able to complete? We'll let you know next week.

Our last day on Isla Mujeres fell on World Cup, and we watched France come out the winner at Nash's Sports Bar. It was an equal split between Croatia and France fans, and we had fun chatting with travelers and expats- one who runs a dive shot on Isla and is married to a French woman. She jumped up at every goal and danced around shouting "Allez Les Bleus"- although we were rooting for the underdog, Croatia, this was a great way to kick off the day.

From there we wanted to explore the rest of the island, so we rented a motorbike and hit the road. I'm not sure Jay is ever happier than when he is zipping around a bike. He doesn't care that the body is cracked, pieces are hanging down, or that strange noises come from the exhaust. We headed south and explored where the locals live, stopping at the southern tip to take in the bluest of blue water. Iguanas the size of cats scuttled across the cliff side and we watched kids play soccer and yell excitedly.

We stopped at an amazing church across from Mango Cafe, laughing because we loved Mango Tree in Bali. Capilla de Guadalupe sits cliff side and was empty as we took a minute to pray for our blessed with on Isla Mujeres.

We had seen most of the island in our hour bike tour, but Jay still had gas and time to burn so we continued to loop through the colorful streets. The heat and humidity were at an all time high, so what happened next is not entirely our fault...we saw a billboard for Ice Bar, completely made from ice and boasting a negative degree temperature. We were in.

As we arrived, it was clearly a tourist trap, but we couldn't be bothered. They threw fur ponchos over us and we entered our own private, freezing room. Turtle sculptures, flashing lights, a disco ball, and pounding music greeted us. And for the first time since we arrived in Mexico, we were cold. We lasted twenty minutes and our bartender in his zip up hoodie laughed as he poured us drinks in ice cups. I will never forget Jay running around the icy room trying to stay warm, his fur poncho flying behind him.

We still had drink coupons (thank you to our tourist package), so we warmed up outside and were quickly approached by four rowdy women from Houston who were eyeing the only empty seats in the area- at our table. We welcomed them over and realized the full tourist capacity of this spot- boats from Cancun were dropping people by the hundred to eat at this buffet, experience the ice bar, and continue to drink unlimited beverages all in a short time span before the boat left. Needless to say, they were hilarious company and we embraced our full tourist hour.

Hopping back on the bike we wound our way back home to Playa Norte and somehow got all of our stuff back into our bags. The next morning we hopped the ferry back to Puerto Juarez and jetted down to Playa del Carmen. My mama, sister, and brother are meeting us here, so we took some down time in our spectacular Air BnB. Casa Boheme is a gem that you would never expect behind the white iron gate next to a laundromat and convenience store. It's a few blocks from the beach and the bustling 5th Avenue, but nestled among local living. Beautifully designed and endlessly peaceful- a perfect example of affordable travel that outshines the luxury resorts every day of the week.

CB & J

CB & J

Adventures Abroad

CB & J

Playing in Playa

Wrapping up Isla