Pit Stop: Chichén Itzá

As we said goodbye to Tulum, we directed our rental car 160+ miles across the Yucatán to capital city, Mérida. This is a predominantly two lane highway with dense jungle on both sides.  Small towns pop up every 30 miles or so, but generally it's a whole lot of sky and trees.  One of the main reasons we rented the car was to stop at Chichén Itzá (about two hours from Tulum and one hour from Mérida).  Recently given the acclaimed "Wonder of the World" status, we were excited to see this ancient Mayan city. 

As you pull off the highway, locals wave big hats at you, reminding you that you are not adapted to the climate and could potentially evaporate without sun protection.  As you pay a few dollars to park, you find yourself at the front of a Disneyland-esque opening gate and it costs 255 pesos a person to enter (about $25 for the two of us).  Once inside, you walk down a long dirt road to reach the heart of the ruins, flanked with wood carvers hocking masks, coloring clothing vendors, and -my favorite- the vendors with the noise makers that sound like a jaguar snarl.  In the heat, it's hard to really know what's happening.  The guided groups had hats and umbrellas, but Jay and I couldn't be bothered.  We forged on. 

The ruins truly are spectacular, especially when you think about how long they've endured.  El Castillo, the focal temple, is crowded with tourists trying to get the perfect angle.  Jay set up his GoPro and we proceeded to jump about 1000 times trying to get the right shot.  We were dripping in sweat and I felt like Honey Boo Boo being badgered by a stage mom, but Jay was relentless. (Considering we've been living on tortillas, cheese, and caramel, I chalked it up to a modified Cross Fit: Chichén Itzá style.)

The massive cenote is blocked for swimming, but the ancient Mayans sent sacrifices of jade, gold, and humans into its depths, so we were content to marvel from above.  Overall, Chichén Itzá echoes with history, but is a bit muted by the tourist herds and haggling vendors. 

See hats and umbrellas in the background.

It's been real, Tulum

Tulum has been growing on us by the day. There is something in the air that gives us a feelings of peace and tranquility. Chantal and I kept expressing similarities Tulum has to parts of Bali. Each shop along the roads had its own spice and flavor that differentiates from the next.

Tulum street food

Getting ready for dinner, Chantal and I had this brilliant idea to bring small change and hit all the local street food carts sprinkled throughout the pueblo: a street food crawl, Mexico style! Each cart was surrounded by groups of locals enjoying the delicious servings for next to nothing. The locals thought it was strange that we stopped at these carts because the "tourists" usually go to sit down restaurants, but we put on our friendly smiles and conversed with the locals in our broken Spanish. Carnitas tacos in freshly made tortillas, hotdogs wrapped with bacon, chicken tostadas, el pastor con queso with a side of the most delicious horchata are just a few of the flavors to name. Each place was better than the next, and it was almost impossible not to get filled up on the first stop. Patience was, indeed, a virtue this time.  Total cost: $5.

After some brainstorming, Chantal and I decided to rent a car for 2 days so we could explore more of Tulum's wonders and also get to Merida the next day (3 hours, 160 miles inland). Grabbing our mini, white Ford Ikon, we raced south to Cenote Kaan Luum, just south of Tulum (recommended by a local restaurant owner). This place was pure magic, as we walked down the 50 foot pier that opened up to the most beautiful aquamarine colored water. Families gathered on the pier, as everyone swam around the cenote. The bottom had soft clay that exfoliated the skin. Chantal and I swam and lay on the dock taking in the amazing views. 

Cenote Kaan Luum 

Where's Jay? Hint: Upside down. In the air.

Cenote Cristalino was our 2nd stop, located between Playa Del Carmen and Tulum. Entering the cenote, you could feel the energy- kids splashing, people snorkeling, families conversing, and kids jumping off ledges. There were easily 4 different sunken fresh water pits that people could swim in. The water was so clear, and it had this sense of rejuvenation once you got out.

The large pit had a cliff, at least 20 feet high, that people would crowd around until they had the courage to jump. This scene had at least a hundred people watching, and the first thing that came to my mind was, "I have to do a backflip." I took the trail up, analyzed the scene, and watched as people built the nerve to jump. I asked around, "Has anybody flipped yet?" No. I took the stage, heels of my feet dangling off the ledge, and hit the gnarliest backflip as locals cheered! Great ending to our last day full day in Tulum.

The next day was the beginning to our adventure inland to Merida. We woke early, drove west a few kilometers, and stopped at a smaller, much more private cenote, Calavera. We got there at 8am, which is when Google told us it opened. We arrived and it was still closed. It stayed that way until 8:45..."Mexico flexico" in full effect. We payed our entrance fee, excitedly; as the first people to get in, we would have some tranquility in the fresh waters.

It got dark and eerie quickly. We were greeted by a massive iguana that looked like a dinosaur from Jurassic Park- it had Chantal shaking in her boots (sandals). This sunken pit had a ladder and a swing, and I was determined to get in. This place had a scary energy; bats flying in and out, fish nibbling at my feet, and strange bubbles surfacing from the bottom. My mind was racing, and as I descended down Chantal nervously took pictures from above. Not going to lie, I scurried to the rope, got a few picture for the Insta, and swam out of there for dear life. There was just something off being there alone, and after researching, Cenote Calavera translates to  "Temple of Doom" and has apparently inherited 125 skeletons from scuba divers who didn't make it out. Scary in the moment, laughing at it after.  El jefe, the iguana, watched up suspiciously the entire time.

Must eats in Tulum:

El Camelo - Mixed ceviche and Coca-Cola in a glass bottle

Umi Sushi Mix - If you need a break from Mexican food

Manglar - Best pizza and pasta in Tulum! 

Xscape Tulum - Huevos Motuleños and banana bread

Dessert Street Cart - Banana, strawberry, caramel, and Nutella crepe wrapped for $1