The Best of Uluwatu

Bukit Cafe Tomato Egg Bake and Bacon

Single Fin Sundays

Single Fin

Fresh juice at the Corner Cafe

Bukit Cafe Breakfast Burrito 

Suka

After two months in our Uluwatu nook, we're sad to leave but feel accustomed to life in Southern Bali and ready to release our "Best of Uluwatu" list to link you with some of our favorites.  Many of these places you'll need; some of them, you'll want; others you'll wonder how you lived without.  We agree on most, but for a few categories you'll see our personal thoughts...overall, you'll can't go wrong in Uluwatu.  

The best motorbike rental company...

• Ulu's Family, on the right as you turn off towards Single Fin
• Safe bikes, deals for renting for longer periods of time, personable service

The best place to buy, rent, or customize a surf board...

• White Monkey Surf Shop

The best nightlife...

• Single Fin, Sunday Nights
• You have to get there early to get a table, but even if you can't get one you'll enjoy an epic sunset, bird's eye view of awesome surf, great DJs, and people from all over the world

The best driver...

• Mario, WhatsApp +62 896-9832-4488
• Kind, helpful, and so reliable

The best activity coordinator...

• Agung, WhatsApp +62 896-8393-0428
• Organized Mt. Batur, secret waterfalls, Gili transport and beyond
• We met him back in February and he's a gem

The best laundry...

• Padang Padang Laundry, across from Buddha Soul; this small place accounts for every item when you drop it off, giving you a copy of that record that you bring back for pickup
• Laundry smells great and is nicely folded, but they get busy and often need two full days

The best dive company...

• Bali International Diving Professionals
• Avandy Djunaidi is the Yoda of diving; don't learn anywhere else. (Note: He's not technically in Uluwatu, but he'll arrange transport and he knows underwater Bali better than anyone else.)

The best daytime beach...

• If it's low tide, get down to Single Fin and head left though the caves.
• You'll find a secret beach with shipwreck ruins and a lot of privacy

The best sunset...

• Balangan Beach Sunset Point
• Use maps.me to get here through the Bingin Beach entrance; the black sands are worth it

The best place to get a book...

• Yeye's is an Uluwatu staple- great food, beautiful atmosphere, awesome gift shop, and huge selection of books
• Trade two you've read for one that you want

The best breakfast...

• Bukit Cafe- anything on the menu
• Buddha Soul- the chocolate smoothie bowl, and all of their other healthy options, will keep you coming back 
  • Be sure to try Om Burger for lunch (same owner, epic black rice buns)
• Corner Cafe- There are two, and they're both great.  Cash only, but great prices.

Best juices and smoothies

• Yoga Searcher- fresh, healthy, organic (you can do yoga in the back and even book villas there)

The best Italian food...

• La Baracca is a newcomer to the Uluwatu scene, but the owners are from Rome and their food is exceptional (Jay's Pick)
  • Beautiful nighttime ambiance and personable service
• Rolling Fork is one of our favorite places to enjoy a long, slow, blogging dinner (Chantal's pick)
  • Homemade pasta is a must, and the lava cake will make you wish you started with dessert

The best milkshake...

• Suka Espresso has pretty much the best EVERYTHING
• Their Unicorn Milkshake is unbelievable 
  • This isn't about a milkshake, but the Lemme Wrap (chicken wrap) will change your life.

Last But Not Least: Lembongan

Blue Lagoon, Ceningan island

As I sit down to type one of our final posts of the summer, I'm at a loss for words and feeling so many emotions at once.  Our final days in Uluwatu passed with the beautiful simplicity that marked all of our time here and I can now testify that you can feel nostalgia for a place before you even leave it.  

I missed it as I lived it: those final days at our favorite restaurants, waving to our summer neighbors who'd become part of our daily lives, and waking up without a big plan or agenda.  I missed the cows as we sped by them on our motorbike; I missed Jay's curly summer hair blowing in my face as he wove us through our familiar streets; I missed the dark walks home where you could see every star in the sky.  I missed Jay's big smile as he burst in from a great surf session.  I missed the wifi being unreliable and being deeply present in everything we did.  I missed the sound of the morning rooster and the unknown creature that made another special noise all summer.  I missed the joy that radiates from the people here, which is more beautiful than any of the breathtaking places we've been lucky enough to see.

View from our room at Song Lembung Huts, lembongan

When a place becomes part of you, you know you've been more than a tourist.  You've carved out a tiny piece of your life and heart to leave behind.  I think that's what it means to travel- and, for me, to live.  I hope we've spread as much love and joy as we've received.  

We jammed our suitcases full and took off to our last stop.  Last, but not least, an island half an hour from the southeast part of Bali: Nusa Lembongan.  Lembongan is commonly described as "Bali 10 years ago" and is one of the most beautiful places I've ever seen.  

The Song Lamgung huts sit on Coconut Bay, near the popular Mushroom Bay, and we can hear the waves crash as we fall asleep at night.  The deck of our hut is set into the cliffside and overlooks a quiet, aquamarine bay, decorated by small colorful boats and light surf. 

Yesterday, we walked about 10 miles exploring the island, crossing the bridge to the tiny sister island, Nusa Ceningan, finding secret beaches and some of the most breathtaking cliff views.  We passed through tiny villages, greeted warmly by everyone, and got lost on the same paths that eventually took us exactly where we were supposed to be.  We watched the ocean form whirlpools that sparkled and roared with the blues and greens that never look real in photos.  

We watched waves hit the cliff so hard they erupted and misted us high above.  We lay out sarongs and watched the sun drop in front of us, a ball of fire dancing through slivers of clouds and painting them cotton candy pink.  We stopped taking photos because they simply pale in comparison.  

Yellow bridge from Lembongan to Nusa Ceningan

Nusa Ceningan

Blue Lagoon, Nusa Ceningan

Secret Beach, Nusa Ceningon

Today, we explored Nusa Penida's underwater world, equally as majestic as the surface.  Our "dive monster" (as our diver master at Tamarind Divers wanted to be called) navigated us through heavy currents that basically channeled us across the most incredible coral reef walls, like astronauts flying through space.  We saw lobsters and eels, hidden in rocky crevices, big tunas, turtles, and so many colorful fish that it was hard to know where to look.  This was the clearest of all the places we've dived, and it was easy to see why Lembongan is a world renowned spot for scuba.  The locals call to each, boat to boat, laughing and smiling and endlessly joyful.

Sunset Beach, Lembongan

Waiting on sunset

There's a contentedness here, which stems from a simplicity of living in the moment- not for a big promotion, or saving for a new car, or a bigger house.  Everyone works together, and everyone is relational.  They want to know where you come from, they want to share their stories, they want you to enjoy the day as much as they are.  And that's how I know that joy is infectious, as much as stress and as much as negativity.  It is also how I know that joy is not a better job, or a nicer car, or even the next awesome trip.  

Joy is a choice and it's about people- how you treat them, how you treat yourself, and how you treat the world.  If you can respect all of those things, and appreciate them as they are, then there is joy.  It is not a place.  It is not a different day.  It is not losing 10 pounds.  It is not winning the lottery.  It is no more available on a Sunday than it is on a Monday.  It's all around you.

So that's what we're bringing back- and hopefully a bag that's under 50 pounds.    

Sunny Side Up Tropical Music Festival

Potato Head is an Awesome Venue

Monkey Whisperer

Here we are, with our epic trip on the homestretch. It’s been an amazing adventure-filled journey, and we are taking it all in with one more full week in our rooted town of Uluwatu before heading to Lembongan to close it out. We truly do feel like locals around here as we are recognized and waved to with a big smile by many of the locals along the main road. We have left our mark on this town and have been privileged to call it home for the past 2 months. Chantal and I spent a few days in Ubud when we were here in February, and we both agreed that we should revisit the food and yogi capital of Bali with a side of a monkey forest. For the movie lovers, Ubud is shown in “Eat, Pray, Love” and really does a great job showing the culture and arts of this hipster area.

Lazy Cat Cafe Entrance, Central Ubud

Ubud Temple Architecture

On a whim, we booked a one-night stay in a villa walking distance from central Ubud, packed a small backpack, and zipped ourselves up there on the motor scooter. This was, by far, the longest journey we made on the scooter that composed of 34 miles of local roads, highways, tolls, and bridges over the beautiful Bali Sea. Mind you, this was a 2 hour trek through towns, cow-filled country lands, traffic areas that we weaved through, and uneven terrain, but we flew through like the locals we were.

We arrived in Ubud before check-in to get a head start to the day. We dropped our bag at the villa and hit the town running. Ubud gives off a strong energy that you can feel, with lifted cafés overlooking the streets, detailed and vibrant architecture, busy roads, and people walking in every direction. There was one “touristy” place that we had been before and had to go back to, and that was the Sacred Monkey Forest… dun dun dunnnn. I absolutely fell in love with the monkeys last time (as much as they fell in love with me) and I had to catch up with the homies to see how they’ve been.

Warm welcome

Hello monkey

Entering the forest, the monkeys were everywhere, and the tourists were holding bananas above their heads begging for a monkey to jump on them. If anything, the furry friends of mine would run up their backs, rip the banana out of their hands and scurry off before the tourist's friend could take a picture of the act. Little did they know, the “Monkey Whisperer” was in the building. I went up to the first group of monkeys I saw, calmly put my arm up to them, looked them dead in the eye, and gave a little wink. With no exaggeration, these guys ran up on me, sat on my shoulders and arms, and chilled while random tourists jealously took pictures. “This guy doesn’t need bananas? Who does he think he is?” “None of your business, ma’am. Have a nice day.”

Monkey Whisperer

Secret Handshake

I gently let my friends hop off, and walked away. It was one of those "drop the mic, and walk off stage" moments. Chantal and I enjoyed walking around the monkey forest, taking a bunch of action shots of each other with our furry friends.

We built up an appetite from walking around the streets of Ubud and running with the monkeys, and I almost forgot about the fried duck that I have craved since our last trip to Ubud. I had to have the Bebek Fried Duck. Chantal researched the best spots for it, and we enjoyed an amazing duck dinner with huge geckos crawling above our heads. “Excuse me sir, is that huge reptile-looking thing real up there?” “Oh, it's just gecko.” Good ol’ Indonesia for ya.

We did Ubud right for the 24 hours we had there, and had an awesome villa to sleep in with my favorite bug nets that surrounded the bed. The villa was called Kampoeng Joglo Abangan, and I definitely recommend it for only $40/night. We embarked on our journey back to Uluwatu the next morning and traveled safe and sound, with a pit stop at a local McDonalds. For some reason, the McDoubles and Fish Fillet just tasted so much better in Indonesia. What a great trip, yet again!

Crispy Bebek (DUCK) at Cafe Wayan, Ubud

McDonalds Jimbaran

The Soaked Survivors

Shorelines of Gili 

Yesterday we were able to get on a fast boat back to Bali, though the company informed us we'd be going to a completely different dock because of weather.  We didn't care, so long as we could get off the Gilis.  So at noon, we shoved our way onto a boat and pushed our way to the top deck.  On our ride to the Gilis, we had been in the seats on the lower level, and with small windows the crashing and swaying felt intense.  We decided the covered, open air deck would give us a nice breeze (and we'd be the first to see land).

About 20 other people had the same idea, and as we set for our three hour ride, the guys running the boat put on club music, started selling beers, and it seems liked like a sunny, good time.  People were up dancing and everyone was smiling.  

Jay and I sat next to older German couples, who had also gotten stuck on the Gilis.  Their boat had needed maintenance the day before, so they'd decided to wait a day and rebook with a different company.  Apparently the boat they avoided had been overloaded, a lady fell overboard, and people were throwing up because of the chop.  We felt lucky to be on our fun boat, wind in our hair.

It started with gentle sprays of water, misting our faces.  And before we could even register, waves of water were spraying onto the boat.  We were all soaked in minutes, and remained that way for the final two hours of the trip.  The guys running the boat seemed unphased, and danced on.  

All we could do was laugh and I kept thinking, "I've never done this before."  We showed up at the dock soaked and shivering, all passengers smiling at each other and making remarks of survivors.  We are glad to be back to Uluwatu, thankful for our beautiful time on the Gilis and taking in our last week before our final days in Lembongan. 

The cutest breakfast at Manusia Dunia 

Snorkling Gili Meno

Stylizing the Ombok pool

my favorite wall on gili air

Look closely at my watermelon juice!

leaving our mark on gili meno

Long Hair Long Life

Gili Air, although initially peaceful and undeniably charming, came with a series of unfortunate events.  (Note: There are no pictures with this post, as it has not been pretty.) It started off simply enough; I came down with a cold and sneezed my way around the island, then got badly congested.  Not the end of the world.  I sat reading in a beanbag chair one afternoon as Jay went out to snorkel. 

He wasn’t out long when I saw him returning, figuring the snorkeling wasn’t very good.  I should know Jay better, and my adrenaline finally kicked in when he calmly said, “I may need your help.”

As he approached he presented his middle toe, covered in tiny spines from some creature and turning purple.  “I don’t think this is good,” he said.  About a 20 minute walk from our villa, I knew he needed tweezers and alcohol (which I should carry in a fanny pack at this point) so I took off sprinting and told him to ask for the wifi and start Googling.

When I got to the villa (not pretty in my congested state) my wifi clicked in and I had a message from Jay (and Google): sea urchin. Only my Jay would get hit by a sea urchin on the top of his foot.  I grabbed the supplies and sprinted back.  In my haste I’d forgotten my sandals, so hot sand added an extra element of fun to my run.

When I got there he was soaking the toe in vinegar, which we now know is the immediate “go to” for sea urchin stings.  It breaks up the venom.  I did my best to surgically remove the spines and we applied vinegar and alcohol until Jay was ready to walk.  Since we were walking around the island, we decided to finish our walk and ended up finding a Medical Center, aka a room with some stuff in it. (No tissues.  Out of tissues.)

They popped Jay on a table and told him the vinegar was a smart move, and really the only thing that works on sea urchin attacks. They did need to break up the stings as best as possible, so his body could absorb the poison and heal.  They picked up a contraption that looked like a miniature golf ball and proceeded to whack the toe and all of the purple spots repeatedly.  It looked incredibly painful, but Jay handled it like a champ and I shuffled through the shelves to find a decongestant.

I was still stuffy the next morning, so sent Jay scuba diving (his toe was successfully healing) and headed to the dock to book our speedboat back to Bali the next day.

Imagine my surprise when I approached our boat company’s counter and presented my tickets, only to be told: “No fast boats today or tomorrow.”  My series of questions and disbelief in my voice seemed to confuse them, but I managed to learn that the government had grounded all fast boats to and from the Gili Islands because of weather.  Our alternative?  A 9 hour slow boat.  My congested head started to spin.

How long would this ban last?  Ask the government.  Great.  Can I get their number?  As you can imagine, I was not the only confused tourist on the dock.  But we seemed to be the only ones concerned.  Apparently the locals are accustomed to boat schedules being suspended on a whim. 

So we made a series of choices.  I declared that I would not get on a boat for 9 hours (we still may have to…) We figured we needed a hotel for an extra night, anyway, so why not see the last Gili Island.  So here we are.  On Gili Meno.  Hoping the winds swing in our favor and we can get back to Bali tomorrow.

Last night we layed on the beach watching the movie, "Lion" on bean bag chairs, eating fresh BBQ, realizing that island life has its perks, so long as you adjust your clock with the trade winds, have some patience, and watch out for sea urchins.  As the locals say every time they pass us, “Long hair, long life.” No rush.  Couldn’t go anywhere if we wanted to.

Oh, and Jay's toe is fine.   

Already August

Manusia Dunia Green Lodge, Gili Air

I have no idea how it is already August.  Time is a funny thing.  Some lazy afternoons seem to last forever and then all of a sudden the plans we made and adventures we dreamed up have become stories, and photographs, and memories.  Our neatly packed bags are strewn across islands, jammed with sea shells, horse shoes, maps, tickets, and a whole lot of life. 

I'm sitting on our porch on a tiny island called Gili Air.  Jay is sleeping in while I sip tea and blog to the sound of the rooster crowing.  We spent our last days on Gili Trawangan catching breathtaking sunsets and exploring life under water.

Exile Beach Sunset Point, Gili Trawangan

Jay and I love scuba.  I think Jay's as at home in the water as he is on land and scuba is the perfect fit for us.  On the Gili Islands, you take boats out to different spots and our first stop was Turtle Point.  The boat was packed with people and while heading to the spot the locals throw wetsuits, booties, fins, and vests at divers.  Do they fit?  Well enough.  They didn't ask for proof of our certification or number of dives.  The honor system is alive and well in Indonesia. 

The dive groups are small, and Jay and I had one other girl and a "dive master" accompanying us.  (I put that in quotes because we knew he was a certified dive master about as much as he knew we were certified at all.  Honor system.) 

When it was our turn we quickly checked our tanks and suited up, sitting on the edge of the boat like we'd seen others do.  Mind you, we entered from the shore on previous dives so entering the water by boat was new.  I asked a few questions and was quickly shushed by Indiana Jay.  "Just lean back!" he said.  And we did.  And we were fine. 

Turtle Point, north of Gili Meno

As quickly as we fell backwards off the boat, our dive master said, "Let's go down," and our adventure began.  Jay and I, pun intended, dove right in, feeling grateful that we were trained by the legend, Avandy.  We knew exactly what we were doing and had a great dive.  I tend to overthink things, and this trip has been a great lesson in running on instincts and just "doing".  

So many parts of life you can only figure out as you go.  I'm learning that more every day. 

Massive turtles and eels and colorful coral were everywhere.  I can't even put into words our time under water.  It makes us awestruck every time.  Tomorrow we will dive again off Gili Air, the smaller Gili Island closest to Lombok.  Stay tuned for that.

But how did we get to Gili Air?  Funny you should ask.  There are two boat options: slow boat and fast boat done by private charters.  You can imagine which one is the bargain price, and at this point probably know that Jay and I always take the bargain price.  For about $4 USD a person, we took the slow boat (40 minutes) from Gili T to Gili Air.  I don't know that "slow" is the right adjective for the boat; I like to call it the adventure boat. 

If the boat looks sideways, it's because it is.

But we made it to the Gili Air dock

My most vivid memories of those 40 minutes are water flying in, the boat careening side to side, and planks popping up as people walked down the middle of the boat.  You get what you pay for.  I eyed the life vests figuring out a strategy to float our bags and use that flotation system like a kick board to get to shore.  Luckily, this terrible idea never had to be tested.  

The shoreline approached, and the bluish green waters welcomed us to another beautiful island.  Gili Air is even smaller and more remote than Gili T, with all the charm that comes with that remoteness and simplicity.  We are staying at Manusia Dunia Green Lodge, where there are rechargeable lanterns because the electricity often goes out island-wide.  This happened twice during our dinner last night, and the live band just kept on singing.  Jay and I, having forgot our lanterns, walked home in the dark and fireworks erupted over one of the other Gili Islands. Life here doesn't seem real sometimes.  

As we head into the last two weeks of our trip, we're soaking it all up and missing all of our family and friends back home.  We can't wait to share our travels with you.  Thanks to everyone reading along with us- wishing you a beautiful August. 

Reading deck at Manusia Dunia, Gili Air

Peace on the porch, Manusia Dunia, Gili Air

Shells of Gili

Gili Air transport

Gone To Gili

On Thursday, we caught a ride to Pandang Bai where we negotiated a fare to Gili Trawangan, one of the three tiny Gili Islands off the coast of Lombok, Indonesia.  As you’ve probably figured out, there are very few set prices in Indonesia and the speedboats operate with the traditional, free-spirited Bali attitude.  The docks are flooded with passengers, all with tickets to different boats set to arrive at 9 a.m.  The boats arrive every few minutes for the next hour or so and passengers and luggage are shoved onto them while vendors hawk Pringles and Bintangs, often from the dock onto the boats.  Once on the boat, you bump your way about an hour and a half wondering if the life vests jammed into compartments on the ceiling are enough for the passengers, especially since there aren’t seats for every passenger.  At least we aren’t in Titanic temperature water and Jay and I had our scuba masks and snorkels.  This was my thought process.  This boat is not recommended for people with motion sickness, but worth every moment of what waits on the other side.

We stepped off the boat into the water and our luggage was thrown over the side to us.  We walked up onto the dock into another new world.  The Gilis have no cars and no motorbikes.  You can walk.  You can bicycle (through sandy, unpaved paths). You can take a horse carriage.  Yes.  As in an 1800's cart attached to a horse that flies down the dirt roads and makes you cling for dear life to the cart and pray an axle doesn’t break.  I haven’t cared about an axle since I played Oregon Trail in middle school.  

But it all works beautifully. 

DOCK SALES

Speed Racer

colorful even on a cloudy day

Our beautiful Gili T Home: Pandawa Resort and Villas

POOLSIDE PEACE AT PANDAWA

KING OF THE POOL

Gili T (as Trawangan is nicknamed) is the most social of the three Gili Islands and the largest, though you can walk the perimeter two hours.  The magic, mayhem horse carriages could probably fly you around in 40 minutes.  It’s one of the quaintest, most charming places I’ve ever been. 

The colors of the water and the sky seem impossible; no matter how beautiful the photographs, the reality is ten times more vivid and awe-inspiring.  The beaches are lined with swings in the water, so you can enjoy the cool water on your feet as you watch the sun slip into the horizon.  There’s a childlike simplicity in the swings and the colorful umbrellas and beanbags, the bells that jingle from the horse carts, and the bicycle bells dinging.  Lanterns light up the night and restaurants have live music and amazing barbeque filling the air.  Laughter and music and joy are everywhere.  It’s hard to put into words.  The island is intoxicating. 

Batu Cave Beauty

We reserved our last full day in Kuala Lumpur for the Batu Caves hike, and we waited until the afternoon for the heat to die down.  Hundreds of steps lead hikers up into an ancient Hindu temple built into the limestone hillside about 15 minutes from the KL city center.  Activity in this hillside temple is said to date back 400 million years, though steps were first built in the 1920s.  A massive gold statue guards the entrance, and lively monkeys entertain the hikers on their way up into the temple.  Music and a prayer service were in session as we reached the top temple, and the sounds echoed through the caves.  Walking down the stairs gives a panoramic view of KL.  Overall, even though touristy, it was spectacular. 

Time Square: Malaysian Mall Madness

Most of life in KL revolves around malls.  Some are high-end, some are outlets, some are wholesale: regardless of type, they are always bustling.  It comes as no surprise, since KL was modeled in many ways after NYC, that there’s a mall called Times Square, which even includes a Central Park inside.  We took off that morning in search of food and to see Times Square, not at all prepared for what we walked into.  (Note: Jay’s commentary is bolded.)

Chantal and I took a cheap Uber to Times Square (less than a $1 U.S., which was true of most rides on our trip) and as we entered, it opened up into a world of its own; roller coasters zoomed above our heads, infinite layered floors rose up as high as we could see with east and west wings, and people moved in every direction. It had a strong energy that we could feel. I looked at Chantal and said, “Where do we even start?” She replied, “We’re going to the top and working down.”

 Jay’s not kidding when he says we walked into a new world.  This indoor monster mall could be sealed from the outside and probably sustain life for all the people inside for over a year.  There’s a college on the top floor, floors that have pharmacies and other practical shops, and restaurants galore.  Looking down from the top floor made my head spin. 

View from above

View over "Central Park"

We quickly realized that this world, like any other society, had a hierarchy.  The popular, name brand shops were nestled closer to the entrance and ground level, and my plan to start at the top put us next to the places with more negotiable prices and questionable merchandise.   We were laughing at this when we passed a watch shop.  I was still mid conversation when I realized Jay had committed the cardinal sin and stopped to admire a watch.  The eager shop owner had a “Rolex” out before I could even get my wits about me.   “I’m just going to look,” said Jay.  He’s in sales.  He knew better.

It was one Indian man in this shop full of “name brand” watches. He seemed desperate for a sale since the top floor was nearly empty (locals probably knew better). I was looking innocently through the glass casing and watches were suddenly forced into my hand. With every watch he let me hold, he kept saying they are good for diving and swimming; I guess that was his selling point for a guy who looked like he surfed. I had no intention of buying a watch, but this guy was relentless: “For you, I have a great deal,” he said and pulled out a calculator. Fake Rolex in hand, he typed 320 Ringgit in the calculator first, and then said, “For you, 280,” changing the number on the calculator. (Ringgit is the Malaysian currency and US Dollar is about 4x more, so the “Rolex” was about $70).  We still aren’t sure why he kept typing amounts on the calculator instead of saying them. It must be a special sales technique. I said no.  He insisted. Chantal rolled her eyes. Then I stumbled on a cool watch with a brown leather band and metallic face that I was kind of interested in. He gave me the good price on the calculator of 280 Ringgit (and of course reminded me that it was good under water- just what I wanted.  A leather watch under water). I denied again as he passed me the calculator. He said, “You type a price in and I won’t look.” Now that really confused me, as he had already boxed the watch, bagged it and put it in my hand. I took the watch back out of the box and Chantal moved in for the valuation.

I noticed two things right away.  First, the watch hands weren’t moving.   There was a hand to count the seconds, and it was frozen in place.  When I mentioned this to him, he insisted, “That hand is just for decoration,” and motioned that the hand didn’t move on any of the watches in his shop.  I looked.  He was correct.  Not a single watch in the shop worked.  Not a great selling point for my valuation.  Second, I noticed that the matte silver casing around the face had a small blemish on it.  It looked like the layer was peeling off.  I mentioned this to him and he started to rub it away.  Sadly, a huge chunk chipped off at that point.  Like the sales champ he was, he played it off like this was normal and continued to chip away.  We seized the moment to say we’d be back, and this time he didn’t chase after us.  He accepted defeat.

As we scurried off, I scolded Jay for stopping and we laughed as we quickly evacuated the floor.  What do you know?  The next floor opened to men’s shoes.  Jay was already inside before I could remind him of the last half hour.

Everyone close to me knows that I am into stylish, stand-out shoes. I already had on my fresh black and white Adidas NMD’s and saw other similar pairs in this store. I picked one up and quickly realized they were fake…again. The salesman ran up to me pushing the sale mid-stride (Do you see a trend here?) I put the shoe down and motioned to what real shoes look like on my feet. That didn’t go over well because when I walked away they were yelling something at me that I couldn’t understand. “Hurry up Chantal, we need to retreat to the next floor down!”

I was several stores down.  I’d learned my lesson and refused to get involved. With yelling following us, we retreated to safer levels.  Always an adventure. 

The Scenic Route to Central Market KL

There was not enough fuel in the world for our next adventure.  It seemed simple enough.  A mile from our lunch is a famous Central Market with hundreds of vendors; the city is one of the most diverse I've seen, with a huge Indian and Chinese influence, Islamic architecture splashed against a New York-esque skyline, and Hindu colors lighting up the streets.  We excitedly followed the path that maps.me set out for us.

Maps.me has been our navigational savior, as it doesn't require Internet connection but runs off of downloaded maps and GPS.  That being said, it seems to work a bit better for driving routes than walking paths.  When walking, the arrow will sometimes get confused and start turning in every direction.  Jay and I call this maps.me being upset. We don't want to make her upset. We want to stay on the path.  

Our path initially wound us up by the magnificent KL Tower.  We learned our lesson and didn't do the touristy ride to the top, but we stopped to enjoy the air conditioning for a minute.  Our first .3 miles of maps.me took us up a winding hill in the 90+ degree heat.  And then maps.me got upset.  

We couldn't figure out which way she wanted us to go; up by the iconic tower there were only a few paths, and she seemed to keep sending us down the backside of the mountain, through a sort of forest/park/jungle path.  Signs warned us about dangerous bugs and reptiles.  I told Jay I didn't feel like this path would lead us back to the streets and markets, but maps.me was insistent so that's the path we took.

We wound through trees and downhill through a beautiful natural park.  I heard the large KL freeway getting louder, and told Jay we may have to climb some trees or hop some fences, but we'd eventually get back on track.  Miraculously, an opening appeared at the bottom of the hill and we wound our way back to a main street.  We were still .5 miles away.  (I'm not sure maps.me is accurate in her distances when she is upset.)

Drenched in sweat, blistered feet, we made it to the Central Market.  It was everything I hoped it would be: outdoors vendors slinging knock off designer purses and watches, inside vendors boasting treasures from around the world, jewelry, art, music, food, colors, eager shop keepers.  There was so much life.

Chinese wonders

Turkish trinkets

outside market views

We took a cab back to our hotel (and it felt quite like New York city as the meter ran in stand-still traffic). Still, with the conversion, our taxi was only $5.  (Note: Make sure you always get a taxi with a meter when in Malaysia or they will concoct much higher prices for your fare.  You will pay them, because you will have blisters, dehydration from the heat and sweating, and exhaustion from the wonders that you just took in.)  The Central Market is a must. 

We capped off our first day in KL with a long nap and stop at our hotel rooftop before heading to dinner.  The KL Tower lit up at night is magical.  The colors change and the whole city seems to sparkle.  Lights are strung across the streets and inside closed shops.  Jay's peanut butter milkshake at funky eatery Gravy Baby (Bukit Bintang neighborhood) did not disappoint. 

KL SKYLINE

THE COLORS OF KL TOWER

Naughty Nuri's

After settling into our hotel, we wanted to get out and explore KL as quickly as possible.  Of course, we needed to eat first.  Our Uber driver told us 4 days in KL is plenty because the food is so good that if you stay any longer you'll get fat.  So far, I have to agree.

If you've never used Zomato, it's an international app that finds your location and countless food options around you.  You can sort the list by proximity, rating, popularity, type of cuisine, etc. There are photos and reviews and it hasn't led us astray yet.  

Since we were starving, we found a place in short walking distance and we were off to Naughty Nuri's, a restaurant that boasts the best ribs in the world.  Our lunch quickly confirmed that claim.  I've never had ribs before, but I can testify that the sauce was one of the best combinations of sweet, spicy, and smokey that I've ever tasted.  Jay stopped talking to me because he was so enthralled in them.  Everyone working at Naughty Nuri's greets you with huge smiles and welcomes and we were personally thanked by the Assistant General Manager, Mr. Arjan, on our way out.  This was the perfect place to break into the foodie heaven of KL, and to fuel our next adventure. 

Good Morning, Malaysia

Our day started at 4:30 am and we were off to the airport in time to catch our early flight to Malaysia.  We're doing a long weekend in Kuala Lumpur- getting a change of pace from island life (and also avoiding outstaying our 30 day tourist visa by a day or so).  You can pay a small amount to extend the tourist visa an extra 30 days, but with $80 roundtrip flights, we opted for the adventure.

We breezed through customs, were taken on our word that we'd been in Indonesia 29 days (not the visa limit of 30), and headed to a restaurant so we could get breakfast and Jay could get his milkshake fix. (Note: This has become a standing order with almost all meals and the Jay's Favorite Milkshakes In Bali list is pending- he's doing the leg work to figure out the best.)

We boarded our AirAsia flight without incident (unless you count the terminal losing full power and plunging into darkness as an incident- in that case, we had consistent incidents leading up to boarding- but why would an airpot need power?) AirAsia is best likened to the Spirit Airlines of southeast Asia, though it makes Spirit look like the Ritz.  Jay's legs were not too pleased, and as the drink and snack carts passed we were swiftly informed that not even water or ice were free.  Thank goodness it was a short flight- my lips were peeling off.  

We had a glimmer of hope before takeoff, as two entire rows ahead of us were vacant.  Even better, they were the emergency rows with a precious extra centimeter of leg room.  We were swiftly informed that those seats cost extra, as they had red chair toppers.  Jay quickly realized those could be removed, but we felt we'd been scolded enough for one day.  Jay dozed off as I asked him if they'd charge me to save the plane in case of an emergency landing.  I channeled my defeat into finishing my book, and the three hours flew by.  All in all, an easy flight.  And when I say "all in all" I mean the free air. 

Robe Life

Joking aside, our flight was on time and smooth- you get what you pay for and we were quickly on the ground, through Malaysia customs, and in an Uber.  Uber is allowed to come to the airport in Malaysia and is the most affordable way to get around (along with another app called Grab).  We struck gold with our Uber driver, Azizudin.  He was part driver, part tour guide and his English was near perfect.  We learned that his father is a high school teacher in Malaysia, his brother attended university and currently lives in New York, and we got unlimited access to information on the hour drive from the airpot to Kuala Lumpur.  We were laughing and I couldn't help but marvel at the continued hospitality and joy of all the people we've met in our travels.  

My favorite part was when we passed Ikea and he proudly proclaimed that KL (what the locals call Kuala Lumpur) has an eek-E-a. He cracked up when I told him my frustration and PTSD from trying to build Ikea furniture, and said many people just go for the food.  We bonded over the Swedish meatballs.  I don't care where you go in the world- there are always commonalities and my favorite part of travel is finding them.  He was the perfect way to kick off our long weekend in KL.

As we approached at The Pacific Regency Hotel Suites the traffic picked up- Azizudin told us that KL was modeled after NYC in many ways, and the traffic definitely reflects that.  There are also big television screens and a Time Square shopping center.  There so much energy and were awed to see our hotel in the heart of the city, directly next to famous KL Tower.  We can see it from our room that sits on the 28th floor and looks out at the blinking city lights.  And my favorite part?  Of course the robes.  Give me a robe and give Jay a milkshake; we won't even mind if you withhold water or legroom. 

From Pirates to Paradise

Chantal and I woke up yesterday morning and felt the urge to do some exploring, and we have talked about visiting Nusa Dua for a while. It is located on the south eastern tip of Bali and would only take about 30 minutes to motorbike there (of course I get us there in 20). Not knowing too much about the area, we googled some fun things to do in the area and somehow landed on Pirate Bay restaurant as a starting point. 

We started our journey driving through town after town separated by country backroads with cows spread across the lands. (That's just what I heard from Chantal as I was too focused on passing the traffic to get us there.) Arriving in the area, there was a huge entrance with 2 lanes with a guard patrolling (one for cars and one for motorbikes). I slowed down, a little, then sped through with my head down. We got a "HEY! WHERE ARE YOU GOING?" and all I heard faintly was Chantal's voice saying, "luuunnncchh," as we scootered in. We got a good laugh out of that because I promised that we wouldn't stop in situations like this anymore; the last time we were interrogated and had to pay 300,000 rupiah for a make-believe international driving permit. Also, I have noticed before that others just speed by because the "officers" are not going to chase after you.  We're becoming more local by the day.

Finally, we made it to Pirate Bay! We parked and scanned the area. We saw the fenced off, pirate ship and it looked like an absolute dump with trash everywhere, and kids screaming in the background. Chantal and I looked at each other and said let's just walk the other way and find a deli or restaurant. We walked around the corner and the path led us to victory. It opened up to beautiful resorts and beaches everywhere. We were in absolute tourist paradise, and quickly realized we were amongst some of the most exclusive, expensive resorts on the island.  Naturally, we decided we belonged.

The MelIa

Luxury lunch set up

We took a detour through The Laguna resort that was beyond luxurious. It had monster pools on top of monster pools that wrapped the resort like a castle. We fell upon a little deli and had the best brunch of our lives that included chicken waffle sandwiches and banana vanilla nutella milkshakes.  Nobody questioned us, and we continued to make ourselves at home. 

The Laguna Nusa Dua

Taking advantage of the amenities 

Lunch time views at the Laguna

Pretending to read the wine menu

After lunch, we went back to the path and walked up the coastline, with more resorts to our left and  sun beds on the beaches to our right with parasailing, kite surfing, and paddle boarding in the distance. There was security everywhere and cameras in every cocunut tree it seemed. We tried to walk into another resort and were immediately questioned by a security man who could have come from the bushes.... "Umm, no sir we don't stay here. We stay at the Laguna Luxury suites." We left and laughed all the way back enjoying all the views. What a great day to pretend we stayed at a $600/night luxury resort and spa.

Pay attention to the sign

Nusa Dua shore

Taking it all in

Making friends at the Laguna

The Day We Pretended We Could Afford a 25-Year Time Share to Win a Free 7 Night Trip

It all went down when Chantal picked the golden ticket in the Seminyak streets. Me, being in sales, thought it was a total scam and that we shouldn't even waste our time checking it out. She was really pumped about it so we made it a priority the next morning. Googling Karma, it seemed like an upscale place and we wanted to dress the part to pretend that we "fit right in". Chantal had a beautiful, bright, yellow dress, and well, all I had was a collared shirt. (Sorry I didn't know we were getting roped into a timeshare coming to Bali).

The drive to Karma Jimbaran was pretty short, so I couldn't complain about that, but when we arrived in the sales office filling out paperwork, I knew it was about to go down! The hotel paired us up with an American representative who took us to a huge room filled with tables of other suckers getting pitched. There were some pros to the morning though. We had free coffee, chicken sandwiches, and assorted fruits while talking to our representative, Matt. He was an upbeat guy from New Orleans who was asking questions to get to know us on a deeper level.

An hour passed by and all I could think about was, "We just want our 7 night free stay in this magical beach villa, and we want it now!" Matt was a very nice guy and very friendly, but he kept saying, "Don't worry, we are getting there." I have been in sales for over 5 years and I know how all this works. They butter you up, they get you to say "yes"to all their questions and then they drop it hard on you at the end: that is exactly what happened.

Our one hour obligation quickly turned to four hours and then they were asking for an upfront cost of over $1,000, maintenance costs, and monthly fees to be able to have a getaway vacation to over 100 countries whenever we wanted. Chantal and I both looked at each other and said confidently, "Nope, we don't have the money to do it." It could have been no more then 10 seconds later when they turned cold and dropped us like a lead balloon out the back exit.

They threw us in a small office where we actually collected our prize.... 4 hours later.  Chantal did win the 7-night trip, so sometime this year we'll be enjoying Karma Vietnam, Germany, India, or Thailand.  Thanks Karma.  Sorry Matt. 

Take the Long Way Home

Our stay at Canggu (pronounced CHAN-goo) came to an end and we set off on our way home, but not without some classic stops.  South of Canggu is Seminyak, where we had an epic brunch at Sisterfield, rated one of the best restaurants in Bali but completely unassuming on its corner.  Swanky and hip, the wifi password was “UlookGoodInBikini”- maybe not after eating there! 

My fried eggs had dill in them and between that and the smashed avocado I was in Heaven.  As if that wasn’t enough, we stumbled into MadPops ice cream shop and couldn’t resist their coconut ice cream on a cone.  More Heaven.  Later, we ducked into speakeasy-esque coffee shop, Revolver, hidden down an alley and it was like slipping into another time and continent. 

Seminyak has a hipster vibe to it, remixed with Bali classics like the fish pedicure.  Jay couldn’t resist that one.  We had some fun in the shops, pretty much said “yes” to everything, and had a perfect, casual Thursday afternoon.  Jay handled the crazy traffic like a local, performing a new trick that I call the “foot slap”- slipping between the curb and aggressive traffic, the bike becomes unstable during the weaving and the best way to combat this is to stretch out the leg closest to the curb and slap the flip-flopped foot repeatedly against it as you pray through the madness.  “Foot slap” makes a noise that I will not soon forget, but got us to Kuta for a great ramen dinner (we’ve been craving pho and found a great spot at Kuta Beach Walk) and home safely back to Uluwatu.

First small detour worth mentioning: On our way to Kuta we realized that the 3D Museum was close to us.  (If you’ve never used maps.me, it’s an AMAZING app that downloads maps and then navigates without wifi- we use it to get everywhere, and it’s perfect about 75% of the time.  Nothing a few “foot slaps” can’t handle, and it reveals interesting places like the 3D Museum.)  I know what you may be thinking…this sounds touristy.  Aren’t you the tourists who hate tourists?  Yes. To all claims.  They took our shoes, so barefoot and ticket paid we forged on. And the first few rooms were terribly lame.  The art is incredible, don’t get me wrong, but the poses are mostly ridiculous and the employees there to frame your photos seem about as excited as the Chuck-E-Cheese workers in America (without big furry mouse heads to hide their lack of enthusiasm inside).  However, we decided to go with it and ended up laughing hysterically and loving the goofy, terrible photos.  The optical illusions are pretty spectacular on some of them, and when you watch other tourists lay on the floors to get the shot you pretty much have to up your tourist game.  Done and done.

Another small detour worth mentioning: Before leaving Seminyak, a promoter stopped us.  He was wearing a Karma Beach shirt, which I recognized from beach parties advertised around town.  Jay had just gotten his feet exfoliated by fish, so we must have looked boujee. He handed us sealed promotional cards, which we opened to reveal “prizes”.  Jay won two t-shirts, but I got the golden ticket: a 7 night stay at one of the Karma Beach Villa Properties (Bali, Vietnam, Thailand, Germany, or India), a GoPro, or 2 million rupiah ($150 ish cash).  The only catch was that we had to scratch off the official prize AT the Karma Beach Jimbaran property, after a “short” presentation.

Jay said scam, but I think he was just bitter with his two t shirts.  So he humored me the following morning.  See next blog. 

A hint for how to find Revolver

That is not me getting braids in the background

sunset at kuta beach

The Tourists Who Hate Tourists

tanah lot with jay on the rocks

It’s official.  Jay and I are the tourists who hate other tourists.  We want to see all the landmark spots, but we don’t want the crowds or hecklers.  We don’t want the selfie sticks and we don’t want the chatter.  I’m not sure who we think we are, but we continue to be shocked at the sacred places that cost money.  Tanah Lot was our most recent temple visit.  Jay can explain:

Tanah Lot, from the pictures, looked really beautiful. It's a temple on a huge, stand-a-lone rock with a a staircase leading up to it. The pictures made it seem like a private temple that you can peacefully walk around and take beautiful pictures with a sunset in the background, no-one in the way. Chantal and I, skeptical at first, said let's just go for it. The driver took us from our Canggu villa and as we pulled up to the front gate, I could immediately tell it was a huge mistake: tour busses, crowds, selfie sticks everywhere, and loud noise... Lions, tigers, and bears, oh my! Welp, no going back now. Chantal and I made the best of it. As we entered, there were gift shops, local restaurants, and grass fields leading up to Tanah Lot. Not going to lie, we were a little salty walking through the area getting knocked in the head by a selfie stick or two, so I broke down and bought an over-priced "sweet corn-on-the cob" and devoured it in seconds while Chantal ate ice cream to cool herself down.

We decided to walk towards the temple area since it was getting close to sunset only to discover mobs of people around the whole thing. It was an absolute zoo. Scanning the area, we decided to walk a half-mile down the beach to a cliff that would overlook the temple and sunset in the distance. We made the best of it as we relaxed, laughed at the crowds in the distance, and enjoyed the view on the cliff as the waves crashed below us. 

tanah lot at low tide

Canggu

Yesterday we set out on a 3 day excursion to Canggu, motorbiking up the western side of Bali.  Canggu came into our plans for different reasons.  Jay met a Bali enthusiast a few weeks before we left who insisted he see Canggu.  I am a kombucha enthusiast and found Happy Kombucha's Instagram back in February, filled with beautiful displays of their super-healthy drink flavors amid dreamy Bali scenes; the company is based in Canggu and I was eager to see the area.  A mini adventure brewed (kombucha pun intended). 

We've had days of rain, but the sky cleared for our adventure and we jammed a backpack full of the things we'd need for the week.  Jay's become a natural on the motorbike, following the locals up on sidewalks when the traffic is too busy on the streets.  It's not my favorite trick, but we are getting places much faster.  I'm squeezing his leg with my death grip less and less and can't complain because I get to see the beautiful world fly by (sometimes directly into our path, but that's a story for another time).

 "Controlled chaos" is the best way I've heard the streets of Bali described.  You have to just go for it, because if you stop and wait for it to be your turn you'll sit there all day.  In a way, our trip is kind of like that- diving into life and going for it.  Of course, obstacles pop up along the way. As we left Uluwatu the police flagged us down and asked to see Jay's driver's license.  They gave us a whole song and dance about needing an international driver's license, which can only be obtained in the home country, and being subject to a fine, but we were "very lucky" and they would give us a "good deal" and allow us to "buy" a permit for the rest of our time here...in case we were stopped again.  They hurried us, because they'd stopped the next bunch of confused tourists.  I scrambled to find the 300,000 rupiah ($20 ish) for the scam permit, but didn't have the full amount in my pockets.  As I started to dig through the backpack the man said, "Give me what you have.  Special deal for you today," and settled for the lesser amount so they could "help" the next set of tourists.  The European couple walking in looked terrified until I rolled my eyes.  On the road again, with our very official handwritten permit.

We made one more stop on our way up, and it's my fault.  I saw a Starbucks and had to see how it compared to my stateside addiction.  The drinks were the same, but the bakery had a complete Bali twist.  purple yam cake, pandan coconut brulee, and corned beef cowboy puff pastries shared space in the glass display.  But my favorite part was the Hindu offering at the counter (found in all Balinese businesses) that included a cake and shot of espresso.  Perfection. 

starbucks hindu offering

the best welcome

We continued our journey north, with the highway crossing waterways and crowded city eventually giving way to rice paddies and narrow streets.  We drove past our villa 4-5 times because the sign was tucked off to the side, but it was love at first sight when we saw Canggu and when we arrived at Ngeluwungan Boutique Villa.  My name was written on the welcome board as we pulled up to the property, and the young staff hasn't stopped smiling since we arrived.

This villa is pure magic.  It's a block from the beach, but nestled into rice paddies.  You can count the number of rooms on one hand, and each is spacious and filled with beautiful wooden furniture.  Plumeria flowers were scattered everywhere when we arrived and we enjoyed refreshing welcome drinks by the saltwater pool.  It's a true oasis, and the skies were blue for the first time this week.

Ngeluwungan Boutique Villa

For dinner, we headed to nearby Echo Beach, which is filled with restaurants and shops along a spectacular black sand beach.  Colorful bean bag chairs and umbrellas line the shore, and fresh fish is grilling from the open air restaurants.  The sunset filled the sky with colors that only seem to exist in Bali, and Canggu found a special place in our hearts.  We're excited to explore here the next few days.

refreshments at echo beach club

echo beach sunset

Team No Stop

On the 4th of July, I hiked the Matternhorn with Indiana (Jay) Jones- it was really Mt. Batur, an active volcano in northern Bali, but it was an epic adventure that I'm not sure either of us was prepared for.  As I recount, Indiana Jay will be giving his two cents (found in italics).

Chantal and I got to bed early that night because we were getting picked up at 1:30am by our favorite driver, Gung (who we met when we were in Bali in February). The adventure to Mt. Batur was about 2 hours away, and we slept through most of the ride. It was really intense arriving to  crowds of people at the base of the volcano, who we later found out were all tour guides who hike Mt. Batur every day. Paying our entrance fee, we were handed baby flashlights as we embarked on our journey up the mountain in the pitch black.

Mind you, neither if us had considered bringing flashlights and had debated trying to skirt the tour guides and hike by ourselves.  We would probably still be out there somewhere.  Although there was a path, there were different trails winding off of it and our flashlights were likely made by Mattel, not REI.  This was not a winding climb; this was an intense hike up loose boulders, sliding gravel, and sand that slid you back a foot with each step.  The last half hour was nearly vertical.  Our guide in the lead, I followed Indiana Jay- though he was bounding up like a gazelle and I was seriously questioning my proclamation to the guide that we "hike all the time". Despite this, we managed to make it to the summit in an hour and a half (most people take two).  Our guide kept asking if we were okay- it was too dark for him to see us lie the entire way up and say we were fine, but we made it. 

As we were sweating to death up this mountain, a lot was going through my mind. I was convincing myself that we were going to make it even though our legs said no more. As Chantal mentioned, the tour guide kept asking if we needed a break every 10 minutes. I was like, "NO, WE ARE TEAM NO STOP!" Anyway, we could have been the first couple of people at the top since we passed all the "Team Must Stop" people. It was freezing and our guide parked us on a bench hanging off the cliff as he scurried away in a little hut. Chantal and I used our body heat to keep warm on this stiff, unfriendly bench until we said screw it! Let's sit in this hut to hide from the winds. Time went on until we had 20 people, guides and tourists, in this hut meant for 6.

There's a reason why we were cold.  We hiked miles UP a mountain, before sunrise (hence the name "Sunrise Hike").  I convinced Indiana Jay at the last minute that a tank top and shorts would not suffice, so he threw in a windbreaker and long sleeve shirt. I had a long sleeve shirt and sweatshirt over my tank top, also in shorts- I'm not sure why I was so smug.  We were both Balinese Popsicles.  Going up the mountain we'd been burning hot in tank tops, and in Indiana Jay's quest to pass EVERYONE on the mountain we made epic time.  What we didn't factor in (in addition to the flashlight and warm clothes) was that getting up quicker means waiting longer for the sun to come up.  Thank goodness for the hut that housed the rest of the under-dressed tourists.  

Being at the top watching the sunrise with hundreds of other people was absolutely breathtaking. The clouds and fog rolling through beneath us, the huge lake, all the villages, and other mountains gave us perspective on our journey. We took it all in as we stayed up there for an hour or so before we fell all the way down. Just kidding, but I could count on 2 hands how many people wiped out attempting to get down this beast of a mountain. Chantal and I were mind blown on the way down as it shocked us what we actually hiked up in the dark that we couldn't see originally. Our tour guide was awesome and the experience was priceless.  

Sunrise at the top of Mt. Batur

Fog rolling through

Priceless, but not enough for Indiana Jay.  After 4 hours of strenuous hiking as "Team No Stop" (running on a can of Pringles that we split) Jay convinced our driver to find a series of hidden waterfalls.  That 2 hour expedition around dirt roads and villages led to another hour trek down wonky stairs and steep terrain, but the rice paddies surrounding us were almost as beautiful as our destination: the elusive Fiji Waterfall and Sekumpul Waterfall. We joked about living down there in a little hut, half because it was so spectacular and half because our legs were screaming "Team Stop Forever".    

Indiana Jay

These waterfalls were absolute magic. We got to swim in the base of each waterfall and it was the freshest water I have ever been in. The energy and power from these waterfalls were incredibly strong and it almost felt like we were fresh and reenergized after frolicking in them. I felt like the happiest kid in the world swimming in these pools and getting knocked around by the pressure of them. Pictures don't do it justice as Chantal and I both agreed that it was the most magical place we have ever been to. These waterfalls and the volcano are must dos if you come to Bali!

Pure bliss at Fiji Waterfall 

Happy 4th of July! 

Kites and Sea Shells

One of my favorite things to do as a little girl was to go to the bay in San Diego.  I always loved the colorful kites, so free in the breeze.  Sometimes we would attempt to fly one, but most often my mama and I would lay on a blanket and watch the kites dance above us.  

Kites are always flying in Bali, and yesterday at Jimbaran Beach took me back to my childhood wonder.  We braved the motorbike and made the 30 ish minute trek to Jimbaran (north of Uluwatu). We stayed all afternoon and into the amazing sunset.  

One thing I know for sure is that the sun does not set the same way in any two places- it's different sizes, and shapes, and paints different colors on different landscapes.  The sun is huge in Bali and sets directly in front of Jimbaran Bay, a ball of fire dropping into a cool blue ocean.

HINDU CEREMONY AND KITE ELATION 

LAST RAYS OF JIMBARAN

As it set, we watched the kites, children jumping and chasing them, men with carts barbecuing corn, and Hindu ceremonies passing by.  The Jimbaran airport landing strip to our right, we watched planes take off and we watched with fascination as the beach restaurants dragged dozens of tables to the edge of the water and transformed the shore into a collage of chatty patrons.

The energy on the beach was electric and it was beautiful to see so many people taking time to appreciate the colors spreading across the sky. 

It was no different tonight, as we adventured to a different beach after exploring Cafe La Pasion and slipping down to Balangan Beach.  This beach goes from white sand, to black sand, to corroded rock structures that create tiny pools of water; the sun glistened off of them in every direction and there were so many sea shells.  Just like the kites, the shells transported me back to one of my favorite childhood past times where my mama and I would collect dozens of shells and glue them on popsicle stick frames.

As the sun slipped down over Balangan, Jay helped me find the best shells and I realized how lucky I am to be with someone who marvels at sunsets and will take the time to look for tiny shells in this vast world: someone who understands that it's all the little things that take us from sunset to sunset.

CAFE LA PASION, ULUWATU

Making it Official

Over the past few days, we have felt more like island people. The first week or so we traveled by foot to get some local food or hit the closest beaches, but we finally hit home with renting a motor scooter for the summer. Funny story: we bargained a great deal for renting a brand new scooter, but we had to borrow an old, crappy, used one for the first day because they were putting a surf rack on the new one for us.

The first day, I (Jay), was zooming all around the island and through the windy streets. Not to mention, they gave Chantal a pink helmet to rock **chuckle**. I love the rush I get when I'm cruising through the Uluwatu streets.

We took it on an exploring adventure until we heard something scraping against the cement. Chantal freaking out, I could have sworn it was a flat tire... (great, just our luck). As I pulled off the street, we found out that it was just a piece of the plastic of the side panel hanging off. Phew, Mr. Fixit (me) kicked that sucker right back into place and continued the journey. You can say our "adventure" got cut short.  

Anyway, the next day we went back to the rental spot and picked up our brand new, shiny black, Honda Vario '17 with a surf rack. We set out on our first mission, looking for the perfect surf board. We must have hit 15 shops until I saw my baby.

A 6' red, wide body Mayhem board that is almost identical to the one I have at home. Bargaining took a while on this board, because the girl who owned this board usually only rents it; apparently, she has too many memories with it. The "I promise I will sell it back to you in 2 months when I leave" won her over and she let it go "temporarily." 

No less then 20 minutes later, I was out in the water at the Padang Padang beach break while Chantal went for a run. Talking about making it official in Bali, right?  

NEW TOYS

TAKING OFF FOR THE FIRST SET

FRONT PORCHIN' IT