Valladolid: A Visual Tour

Valladolid is a smaller colonial town that sits a 2.5 hour bus ride east of Mérida- smack in the middle of the Yucatan.  The ADO bus system has been a Godsend for Jay and I, as they do long trips like this for close to $10 a person.  The seats feel roomy until the little girl in front of you demonstrates that the seats really do recline all. the. way. back. Jay's face was priceless, but I was too consumed with the person selling popcorn and other snacks down the bus aisle moments before we left the terminal.  

As we pulled into Valladolid, we booked our trip up to tiny Chiquila, where our ferry to Isla Holbox would leave a few days later.  (We're getting smarter with the bus system, learning that if you don't book days in advance you usually have to wait hours for a bus with room.) 

Our Air BnB was walking distance according to maps.me, so we set off in the direction of a beautiful park, knowing only that there was a coffee shop and we should inquire there about our keys.  We found the park, dotted with coffee shops and restaurants around the perimeter, and Jay looked at me and shrugged.  I popped my head into the first one and said, "Buscando para mi Air BnB," and the woman delightedly exclaimed, "Chantal!"  She pulled out a large key and took us next to the cafe, to a huge wooden door with a padlock the size of two fists.  We stepped into a magical loft, complete with a chalkboard of suggestions for Valladolid and two cervezas waiting in the fridge.  Another Air BnB win, though the stairs to the loft were double the height of normal ones and we had to grip the railing like we were climbing Everest. We quickly fell in love with the quaint loft and our Valladolid neighborhood. 

The park next to us was home to a beautiful convent, dating back to the 1500s.  One night we were returning from dinner and saw a crowd of people sitting in front of it, staring at the walls, eating churros and crepes, and anticipating something.  Sure enough, moments later, a light show commenced and projectors behind the park displayed a 20-minute history of the region and Convent de San Bernardino de Siena.  Colorful images and a booming voice guided us through the history of this space, and children clapped in rapture as the stone walls became one of the most spectacular "movie theaters" I've ever seen.  

Convent de San Bernardino 

We continue to find ourselves in the middle of moments that we couldn't have crafted with the best of guidebooks and pre-planned itineraries.  Each time we pray, I ask that God continue to show us the beauty in each of these places and He's making sure we're not missing a drop.  

Take a few hours for Cenote Zaci, a partially enclosed cenote just a few minute walk from the town square.  We were swimming in the fresh waters as a short rain passed over, sparking the waterfall into the cenote to surge down onto us.  

Take a longer walk to the Zentik Project and immerse yourself in art and solitude.  

Zentik Project

I'm so glad we took the time to see the Yucatan beyond the beaches and islands.  Inland, city life has its own magic and charm, leaving both Mérida and Valladolid imprinted in our memories.  

The word for Valladolid? Unexpected- in all the best possible ways.   

Yerbabuena

Tresvanbien

For authentic Mayan food, Yerbabuena.  

For empanadas in a romantic garden setting, Tresvanbien.  

For tables directly on the street and fantastic people watching with pizza, Cafeina.  

Mérida Magic

As we pulled into Mérida, we realized we weren't in Kansas anymore (and by Kansas, I mean a beach town, a tourist haven, or small pueblo).  Mérida is the capital of the Yucatán, the largest city in the peninsula; it has the highest indigenous population (60% Mayan) and evident Spanish, French, and British influences.  

Many of the streets are cobblestone, and the colorful colonial buildings have ornate, carved doors and window boxes reminiscent of Paris or Barcelona.  On Sunday, everyone gathers in the town square.  Artists and food vendors fill the plaza, locals blow bubbles and giddy children leap for them, a band in gold suits fills the air with lively music, and people flood the streets to dance for hours.  

The Sunday scene

Around sunset, a ceremony is performed to lower the flag from the plaza center, and police march proudly in a procession. A Sunday mass echoes from Cathedral de Mérida, a towering structure, adorned with big brass door handles, that was built in the 1500s with stones from the Mayan ruins.

A mile from the city center are colonial mansions, many of which sprung up during a period of prosperity at the end of the 19th century.  Around this time, it is rumored that Mérida housed more millionaires than anywhere else in the world.  Today, many of those mansions have been repurposed into office buildings, museums, and banks.  To our good fortune, some are now hotels.  

Our Air BnB, Villa Mérida, is one of the most beautiful, peaceful places I've ever seen.  The rich, warm colors pop from the walls, fountains drown out the city noise, and vaulted ceilings, chandeliers, and tall doors that open with skeleton keys are daily reminders of the historical roots of this home.  Patrick is a charismatic host, excited to chat and share Mérida suggestions. All of the floors are original, and the tiles stay cool on the hottest of days.  Orange blossom soap and shampoo fill the air, and I think I'll always think of Mérida when I smell that sweet fragrance.

We've fallen into a lazy rhythm of waking up slowly, wandering down the block to the market, selecting the right ingredients, and cooking an afternoon breakfast in the large kitchen that sits beyond the pool at Villa Mérida.  We read and write for a few hours, then venture to town.  We sit on park benches and people watch, we follow the smells in the air to the best street food, we try to mimic the foot patterns of the dancers, and we laugh with the crowds of joyful locals.

If Mérida had a word, it would be "energy"- or "tradition" - or "free".

Playing in Playa

Entrance to CASA BOHEME

Casa Boheme has been a magical home for us this week in Playa del Carmen, and we highly recommend you explore Air BnB when you travel.  Each night we leave the loud, tourist streets and zig zag through local blocks to get to our oasis.  Large families sit together every night to eat and laugh and talk into the night.  Babies bounce on laps, dogs circle at feet, the smell of fresh tortillas tranquilizes.  Mexico is charming.

We've had the gift of my mama, brother, and sister joining us for the week, and they're staying about a mile away at Acanto Hotel.  These condos are tucked away on a block by the beach; they feature balconies that look out to large trees with sweeping vines that sway next to strings of lights and colorful lanterns. All a pack, we've explored the oceans, jungle, and cenotes (See Jay's blog above). We've also embarked on a foodie tour.  Let's start with breakfast...

BREAKFAST IN PLAYA DEL CARMEN:

Madrez! Cafe- With a tiny kitchen and patio seating for about 10 patrons, Madrez! is small in-size and large in flavor. My brother made moaning noises with his savory waffle that came with eggs, bacon, and syrup on top, and I think Jay teared up at his first sip of homemade lemonade.  My sister's caramel latte was something from a dream. 

Dos Huevos- Down on the quieter end of bustling 5th Avenue, past Ave. CTM, sits unassuming Dos Huevos where you can go decadent (Jay's chicken and waffle tower) or healthy (a fresh fruit smoothie or bowl). 

Amorino: Gelato al Naturale- Ice cream for breakfast? Only if you add a crepe, caramel, and whipped cream. Each crepe comes with three gelato flavors and we're partial to the vanilla, yogurt, and milk chocolate (although the banana sorbet almost made this an appropriate adult breakfast).

DINNER IN PLAYA DEL CARMEN:

"Where did lunch go?" you might ask.  Well, on "Mexico time", breakfast is around noon and a churro loop sustains you until dinner.  We've all agreed that Playa has some of the best food in the world, and I personally wasn't expecting the variety and creative flavors.

Plank- Our server had a wooden bowtie and the rest of the experience followed in class and fun.  Steaks are served with table-side stones so that you can sear each bite before eating.  Our dessert brownie came on a chilled stone. Who doesn't love a place that encourages guests to play with their food?

Piola- Looking for Italian food in Playa? Nestled in the part of Ave. 38 that's completely enclosed in trees, Jay and I felt like we were back in Bali. Live acoustic music fills the art and colorful lanterns sway from the ceiling.  Zucchini noodles can be subbed into any pasta dish and my mom's salmon was dreamy. 

Imprevist- Tucked away from the lively crowds, Imprevist sits on a cobblestone street with a colorful candle shop glowing nearby.  This is the best food I've ever had- they do all sorts of Asian favorites and my brother had to order a second tuna tartare because the lemon whip on top was too good.  Jay's vindaloo was as beautiful as my green curry and we were pleasantly surprised by the octopus appetizer that the chef sent out.  Innovative, fresh, and flavorful! 

Live Aqua Boutique Hotel Rooftop Pool- Jay and I stumbled upon this rooftop restaurant when we were walking home one night.  Sitting a few stories above the city, tropical house music and sparkling wine had us lulled into a trance.  A loud pop surprised us and fireworks went up from the street next to us, dripping down into the pool next to our table.  This is one of the most intimate places we've found on our travels.  Get the ceviche!

ART:

La 5th Hacienda- As delicious as the food in Playa del Carmen, the art scene is world class.  If you're looking for beautiful ceramic work, large canvas pieces from local artists, or one of a kind glass work, go see Alex at La 5th Hacienda.  He spent so much time talking through the history of the pieces in his shop and all larger items ship for free.  He excitedly wrote out recommendations for the upcoming cities on our trip and his shop is a must-stop. 

RELAXATION:

Quinto Elemento Spa- This tiny spa on Ave. CTM is easy to pass, but not to be missed.  Our deep tissue massages were a bargain but some of the best we've ever had.  The massage concluded with caramel cake and apple cider- hard to top that.  There's something about the caramel in Mexico...

At the risk of make you think that all we're doing is eating and laying around, I'm passing the computer to Jay so he can fill you in on our adventures in Playa.  Will the food in Tulum be able to complete? We'll let you know next week. 

Octopus at Imprevist

5th Avenue sparkle

Casa Boheme

Live Aqua